Uluru is the Aboriginal name for Ayers Rock, Australia’s most famous sacred site and the scene of Meryl Streep’s anguished scream in A Cry in the Dark: ‘A dingo’s taken my baby!’ And so, the interiors here are meant to evoke an Outback shed, complete with timber floors, jarrah (eucalyptus) tables and a faux-corrugated iron ceiling. 

Food-wise, the Aussie theme is not always carried through successfully (there’s no sign of a pavlova and save for the kangaroo meat, there’s nothing particularly Australian about the menu). The thin slices of smoked duck on a bed of nicely vinegared leaves with caramelised grapes made a good start; but the Caesar salad with an inexplicably cold poached egg was a low point. At the risk of sounding pedantic, a Caesar does not contain any sun-dried tomatoes. It’s like sending out a plate of char kway teow and calling it fried rice. 

Uluru also needs to rethink the pricing of some of its dishes. At one meal, the shock of the anaemic and tasteless beef consommé, in which a lone tiny dumpling lurked with embarrassment, was quickly replaced by the realisation that this small bowl was going to cost us $12. At another dinner, the Angus sirloin steak ($38++) was unevenly cooked, medium at one end and medium rare at the other. More irritating was that I expected the side servings of puréed pumpkin and sautéed asparagus – though excellent – to be larger than, literally, a teaspoon. 

There were bright spots though, most notably a foamy, jade-green watercress soup accentuated by a single French oyster that left a rich and buttery note on the tongue. Scallops were gently seared, though the accompanying salad could have done with more than a few drops of dressing. The huge hunks of beer-battered fish and crisp fries are easily some of the best in town; and it was hard to be unmoved by the wonderfully done, if a little over-salted, hamburger with its thick, juicy patty, perfectly oiled fried egg, greasy bacon strips and a discreet hit of jalapeno chilli. 

But where Uluru really steps up is with its jovial staff and impressive service. 

More information on Uluru.