With the shophouse windows thrown open to a view of palm trees and the Sultan Mosque, upstairs at Baladi feels like another world. Its spread of food is homely, consisting of puffed-up Lebanese bread, vine leaves stuffed with rice, salads spiked with pomegranate and olive oil, beef and chicken sharwarma, earthy grilled aubergine dips, piquant pickles, smoked meats and vegetarian classics. After dinner, puff on a scented shisha.