The brains Clarissa Choh, 32, has always loved the way a cheongsam accentuates a woman’s figure and how it can be smart, formal and sexy, all at the same time. ‘The traditional cheongsams only look good on slim figures, so I want to make a modern cheongsam with a more flattering style for the modern woman,’ says Choh, whose dream of having her own fashion business – despite having zero dressmaking experience – became a reality in 2006 with My Mandarin Collar. Armed with an eye for detail, the self-described shopaholic taught herself about patterns and how they work for certain body types, and how cuts, shapes, contours and seams affect the outcome of a piece of clothing. Now she translates her ideas into proper drawings with the help of a designer. 

The goods The artful mandarin collar sums up the idea behind the label. ‘I love the way a mandarin collar flatters women of all figures – it smartens up an outfit instantly,’ says Choh, who gleans style inspiration from different fabrics. ‘I get inspired by [fabrics] and thus choose not to stick just to brocade. When I see a piece of material I get a lot of ideas on what it can be made into.’ The main line at My Mandarin Collar consists of one-off tops (with the mandarin collar, of course), which are only repeated upon request. There’s also a line of one-of-a-kind (OOAK) cocktail dresses that are tailormade; or if you like, you can exercise your creative juices and bring your own design for Choh to work with. 

Our pick Originally made for Choh’s personal wardrobe, this cocktail dress (pictured, far left), made with lace and nude-coloured silk lining, looks great with casual sandals for an informal event or paired with a pair of killer heels for a night on the town. The smattering of sequins on the dress adds shine and dimension to the traditional cheongsam, giving it a modern edge; and as Choh mentions, the lining can be substituted with a different colour, such as pink for a girlie touch or green for a hint of cool. 

Where to buy Tops from $79; extravagant cheongsam for $588. 52 Taman Warna (9765 8575, www.mymandarincollar.com). Buona Vista MRT. Daily 11am-8pm, call to make an appointment.