Treasured temples, palm-fringed beaches, verdant vegetation, brightly coloured saris, happy herds of elephants… it would be a cliché if it wasn’t all true, but it’s here, in India’s southernmost state. Kerala has a purpose beyond petrol, extravagant cars and air-conditioned shopping malls. It’s no wonder, then, that Sir Paul McCartney hailed Kerala as ‘truly God’s own country’. 

Adventures abound all over, but as a first port of call, Kerala’s capital (officially titled Thiruvananthapuram, but more commonly referred to as Trivandrum) is a good place to start. The most interesting part of town is the old Fort area in the south. Temple addicts will want to seek out the Sri Padmanabhaswamy temple, which is still controlled by the Travancore royal family. The temple is a medley of architectural and indigenous Keralan styles, which are juxtaposed alongside the Dravidian, Chola and Pandya. Although only Hindus can go in, it’s still worth a visit, as it’s stunning from the outside. Also of interest is the nearby Puttan Malika Palace museum; a beautiful two-storey palace, home to Keralan artefacts and paintings. Sightseeing should continue with a visit to the Public Gardens, which contain two of the capital’s best museums: the Napier Museum and Shri Chitra Art Gallery. Highlights at the former include fifteenthcentury Keralan woodcarvings, while the latter – with its attractive toiled roof and cool verandas – houses splendid paintings by Indian artists, as well as those from China, Tibet and Japan. 

The key to the city’s appeal is its overall effect, and the best way to get an initial take on Trivandrum (still without a single Starbucks or Gap), is to stroll the length of MG Road on foot. Every corner has something of interest, for the bustling thoroughfare is alive with rickety tuk-tuks and vibrant roadside stalls selling everything from art and jewellery to bananas and spices. All are sold out of large open sacks, making for sensory overload. 

Once you’ve got the city out of the way, most travellers head south to the coastal village of Kovalam. A mere 20 minutes away, it offers a welcome change from city life. Kovalam consists of three beaches – Hawah, Samudra and Lighthouse. The latter is where most of the action takes place. It’s a lively place to stroll, overflowing with fruit sellers and art and curio shops, where you can pick up innovative keepsakes that aren’t mass-produced. Clothes, carpets, lamps and accessories are a steal – you’d be nuts not to indulge. 

If Kovalam proves too busy, escape to Varkala, 54km north. The enchanting cliff-top area is a haven of palm-thatched cafés – a peaceful place to unwind. It’s also the spot to spend a few relaxing hours cleansing the body in one of the many ayurvedic centres. The traditional Indian medicine of ayurveda is ingrained in Keralan society, where people adhere to a strict ayurvedic lifestyle, and embrace diet, exercise, yoga and massage. The range of treatments is mind-boggling, but all involve the pouring of hot herbal oils and medicated milk over the body. Venues such as Krishnatheeram (+91 470 260 1305) tend to be basic (be prepared for a power cut or two during your treatment), but the massages administered here are highly effective in relieving your body’s aches and pains. Ayurveda aside, Varkala is a temple town, and down in the village you’ll find the Janardhana temple, said to be more than 2,000 years old. 

From Varkala, catch a train three hours up the coast to Kottayam, the gateway to the lush Kumarakom peninsula. You could take a taxi, but why not let the train take the strain? It’s one of the great experiences in India. Whatever you do, travel with a big appetite; vendors patrol the length of the carriages proffering their wares, which range from piping-hot tea (listen for the unmistakable cry of ‘garam chai’) to packed meals. And it’s on the train – a legacy of the British Raj – that you’ll see signs of the real Kerala. Paint-chipped walls and patchworkrepaired houses can be found among grasslands as the train powers on. On arrival at the Kumarakom Lake Resort (Kumarakom North Post, Kottayam 686 566, Kerala; +91 481 2524 900; www.klresort.com; from S$467/night), greetings of ‘namaste’ fill the air. The feel of the place is rustic, right down to the traditional villas (made from parts of old Keralan houses) with their ‘illam’ interior and ‘open to the sky’ bathrooms. Voluntarily waking up at 6.30am while on vacation might be something of a first, but at the resort, chances are you’ll find yourself doing so in order to partake in a yoga class (India is the land of yoga and meditation), before padding along in flip-flops for a bountiful breakfast buffet at Ettukettu, a restaurant housed in a 200-year-old building. 

One essential – no matter what your budget – is to take a boat cruise on the backwaters, which can be arranged through the resort. They allow visitors an intimate glimpse into the lives of local people hidden from the road. As you meander through miles of waterways (including lakes, canals, rivers and green swaying stretches of paddy fields), expect to see trails of underwear, washing lines, and villagers cleaning both themselves and their clothes in the water. After your boat ride, there’s nothing left to do in Kumarakom but to consult the excellent ayurvedic doctor about any ailments you have, chill out in a hammock, and sip an expertly mixed cocktail while watching the sun set. 

Essential information 
Travel tip Visas are required to enter the country. Go to www.embassyofindia.com/consular_visa.asp for details. Getting there Flights from Singapore to Trivandrum start at S$750 on Silk Air. Currency S$1 = 26.78 Indian rupees (INR)