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Planning ahead: Loi Krathong


Cast your worries and misfortunes into the rivers of Sukhothai this November with a krathong (vessel). Every year on the full moon of the 12th lunar month, waterways all over Thailand are lit up by beautiful floating krathong in a thanksgiving ritual to the river goddess, Mae Khongkha, for her abundant supply of water and blessings. For the Thai people, setting the krathong adrift is a symbol of releasing one’s sins and grievances; some leave strands of their hair or clipped nails in the krathong; others include coins in the vessels as offering. 

One of the oldest festivals in Thailand, Loi Krathong is widely celebrated all over the country in different ways according to regional cultures. People in the Tak province use threaded coconut shells instead of traditional banana-leaf krathongs, while those in Chiang Mai light up giant lanterns and set them off into the sky. The biggest celebrations take place in Sukhothai, where the festival is said to originate from – Nang Noppamas, a beautiful young queen from the thirteenth century, made the first krathong and presented it to the king. Today, the Noppamas pageants during Loi Krathong are held in her honour. Other festivities include firework displays, krathong contests, and song and dance performances. 

What to see: The festival is held at the Sukhothai Historical Park, a heritage site protecting the ancient capital ruins dating back to the thirteenth century; here you’ll see palaces, temples, city walls and moats. Highlights include Wat Mahathat, Sukhothai’s largest temple, and Wat Si Chum, a 15-metretall statue of the sitting Buddha, among other attractions. A total of 193 ruin sites span 70 square kilometres of land, so be sure to put on comfortable walking shoes and take plenty of water. The best way to get around the park is to rent a bicycle (THB30/S$1.40 for 12 hours) or motorbike (THB150/ S$7 for 12 hours) from shops in the area; alternatively, there are trams (THB20/S$1 per ride) that take you from site to site. 

What to eat: Look out for Sukhothai Noodles – rice noodles with crispy pork in a tasty, dark soy sauce flavoured with peanuts, chilli and green beans; a must-try for visitors. For an authentic Thai dining experience, drop by Kru Iew (Soi Mahasaranon 1, +66 5561 2710), a favourite with the locals; the place serves mouth-watering native fare like pattaya-style pad thai and naim neung (rice paper rolls with pork). Opening hours vary, so don’t be surprised if this eatery closes earlier than most restaurants. The good news is that few foreigners know about it, so you’ll be avoiding the hordes of tourists and thus being overcharged. Prices range from THB25 (S$1.20) to THB50 (S$2.35). 

Where to stay: Lotus Village sits in the heart of New Sukhothai and is a 20-minute bus ride from Sukhothai Historical Park. The Thai/French managed boutique hotel boasts rustic teak houses set in lotus-pond gardens and is great value for money. If you’re looking for a place near the historical park in Old Sukhothai, try Tharaburi Resort, a 15-minute walk from the park. You can choose to stay in the simple standard rooms (shared bathrooms) or the deluxe rooms and suites, depending on your budget. They also offer Thai massages, cooking courses and free use of bicycles. 
►Lotus Village: From THB720 (S$33.80) per night. Lotus Village 170, Ratchathanee St, Sukhothai, Thailand (+66 5562 1484, www.lotus-village.com). 
►Tharaburi Resort: From THB900 (S$42) per night. 11/3 Srisomboon Rd, Thani, Muang, Sukhothai, Thailand (+66 5569 7132, www.tharaburiresort.com). 

Loi Krathong: 21-25 Nov. Sukhothai Historical Park and Sukhothai Central Hall, Sukhothai Provincial Centre, Amphoe Muang, Thailand (+66 2250 5500, www.tat.or.th).
Photos courtesy of Tourist Authority of Thailand.






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