The story of Sweden at war, rather than its military infrastructure, is the museum's dominant theme, which may seem odd since Sweden has avoided conflict for the last 200 years. But with 1,000 years of history on show, you soon learn that the Swedes were once a bloody and gruesome lot. The Army Museum - housed since 1879 in the former arsenal, an impressive white pile built in the 18th century - reopened in May 2000 after seven years of renovation. Exhibited over three floors, it's not all uniforms and gleaming weaponry. Life-size (and lifelike) tableaux, such as a woman scavenging meat from a dead horse and doctors performing an amputation, show the horrific effects of war on both soldiers and civilians. The main exhibition begins on the top floor with the Viking age and the Thirty Years War, and continues below with the 20th century. The ground floor area houses an artillery exhibit and a restaurant. If you miss the highly recommended guided tour in English, the front desk provides a detailed pamphlet, also in English. The Royal Guard marches off from the museum (summer only) for the changing of the guard at the Kungliga Slottet.