Not many restaurants feel as genuinely Swedish as this beer hall in Södermalm. Its elegant painted ceilings and wood-panelled walls haven't changed since the days before Söder became trendy, back when restaurants served only husmanskost. Classics on offer here include pytt i panna, SOS (smör, ost och sill - butter, cheese and herring), and meatballs with lingonberries and pickled cucumber. Check dishes listed on the blackboard to find the real bargains (under 100kr), such as knuckle of pork with root vegetable mash, or fried salted herring with onion sauce. Ice-cold schnapps is compulsory.