1. Pure Blue Japan
    Photo: Keisuke TanigawaPure Blue Japan
  2. Japan Denim Ginza
    Photo: Japan Denim GinzaJapan Denim Ginza
  3. Hinoya
    Photo: Keisuke TanigawaHinoya
  4. Momotaro Aoyama
    Photo: Kisa ToyoshimaMomotaro Jeans Aoyama
  5. Momotaro Jeans
    Photo: Momotaro Jeans/Facebook

10 best Japanese denim shops in Tokyo

Where to shop for artisanal, long-lasting and made-in-Japan denim that won't go out of style

Kaila Imada
Written by
Time Out Tokyo Editors
&
Kaila Imada
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Tokyo is renowend for its fashion, with glitzy department stores and stunning flagships from leading Japanese and international brands. But Tokyo also caters to your more specific fashion needs, especially if you're looking to add a new denim item to your wardrobe.

Japan's love for denim started when the textile was introduced to the country at the end of World War II. Since then, Japan has made this American staple its own, perfecting it with precise attention to quality and detail.

Today, Japanese denim is praised for its fabric, quailty of dyes and the use of the best materials in everything from the cotton to the buttons and rivets. It's also worth noting that Japanese denim usually starts off raw and then softens and fades as you wear and wash it. This is in contrast to pre-washed and distressed denim, which is treated to get that well-worn look.

This guide lets you in on Tokyo’s best Japanese denim shops, all of which deal in top-quality, carefully crafted domestic wear and pay the utmost attention to detail in everything from manufacturing to presentation. Just so you know you're getting the real deal, some of these brands hail from Kojima in Okayama prefecture, which is widely regarded as the birthplace of Japanese denim. 

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The top Japanese denim shops in Tokyo

  • Shopping
  • Harajuku

You can’t start your Japanese denim hunt without knowing about Pure Blue Japan. The brand’s store is tucked down a Harajuku side street and has a very discreet entrance, but it’s definitely worth seeking out.

Once inside, you’ll be in denim heaven. Pure Blue Japan prides itself on its yarn dyeing process, which involves using aizome indigo-dyed threads to create high-quality garments. The yarns are what give each pair of jeans a unique touch, as they will fade differently depending on how they’re washed and worn.

These indigo yarns are also used to make other items like T-shirts and denim jackets, which also benefit from the fading process. Another special detail to look out for at Pure Blue Japan is the thicker stitches, which give the jeans a nice puckering effect.

  • Shopping
  • Ueno

Ameyoko is a maze of alleyways running beneath the train tracks between Ueno and Okachimachi stations. These bustling shopping streets are known for everything from fresh fish to souvenirs, but particularly clothes. And at Hinoya, it’s high-quality denim you’ll find. 

You can browse a range of major Japanese and international denim brands. Expect to see the likes of Momotaro and Big John, as well as some lesser-known labels such as Oni Denim, Yen Jeans and Burgus Plus. Hinoya also has two sister stores next door with even more denim brands, but if it’s jeans you’re looking for, this main shop is your best bet.

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  • Shopping
  • Omotesando

Momotaro Jeans hails from Kojima in Okayama prefecture, often considered the birthplace of Japanese denim. The brand's name is also linked to Okayama, coming from the traditional folklore tale 'Momotaro', which is closely linked with the prefecture.

At the Aoyama boutique, you’ll find the brand’s full denim range, including jeans, jackets, shirts, shoes and small accessories. Momotaro denim is made from Zimbabwe cotton, which is commonly used for high-quality dress shirts and offers a flexible feel, excellent durability and unique fading characteristics.

If you purchase a pair of jeans at the shop, you can even have them hemmed free of charge on the same day. This might not sound so exciting, but it’s worth sticking around for the process as the shop uses a special antique chain stitch sewing machine to make the alterations.

  • Shopping
  • Ginza

This chic denim store inside the glitzy Ginza Six shopping centre is the flagship for Japan Denim, whose name says almost everything you need to know. But there's a deeper backstory to this fashion brand.

Japan Denim fuses varying fabrics and production techniques to create items with renowned fashion designers and labels. You'll find one-of-a-kind collaborations such as women's denim skirts and dresses by Japanese designer Emori and classic jeans by popular denim brand Yanuk.

If you can’t make it to Ginza, you can explore Japan Denim’s virtual showroom to take a closer look at the garments.

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  • Shopping
  • Ebisu

Japan began sewing up the high-end denim market with the late 1980s rise of the ‘Osaka Five’, a clutch of Kansai-based labels that revived techniques elsewhere abandoned in favour of mass production. One of the prominent members of this bunch was Studio d’ Artisan.

You can explore the brand's range at this Ebisu store. Studio d' Artisan is famous for using a process known as ‘hank dyeing’, which takes many days to complete,  but creates a deeper hue than other methods while retaining the cotton’s natural softness.

  • Shopping
  • Daikanyama

Founded in Osaka back in 1991, Evisu has grown to become one of Japan’s most prominent denim labels. It started out as one of the original ‘Osaka Five’ and has gone on to shape the Japanese denim industry through its success in overseas markets. 

Through all its fame and success, Evisu has stayed true to its roots, still focusing on raw selvedge denim, which is renowned for its durability. At the flagship store in Daikanyama, you can shop the entire collection including jeans for men and women as well as T-shirts, shirts, knitwear and even eyewear.

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  • Shopping
  • Fashion
  • Harajuku

A browse through this store will reveal a stocked collection of good quality denim, leather and other cosy wardrobe staples. From worn-in T-shirts and heathered grey sweats to vintage-inspired souvenir jackets and military bombers, there’s no shortage of fine fashion staples at this urban cool dealer. 

But it's denim that really makes this store standout. The Real McCoy’s denim replicates styles from the 1930s, 50s and 70s using a vintage loom to weave the fabric. These jeans also feature a natural slub that showcases tiny tufts of white yarn on the surface of the fabric.

  • Shopping
  • Vintage shops
  • Ebisu

This Ebisu shop goes to great lengths in recreating vintage garments. It researches traditional threads and production techniques to turn out products that are practically indistinguishable from real vintage items.

The focus here is more on experimentation than trends – something that tends to attract denim enthusiasts. Look out for Warehouse Ebisu's classic ‘1001XX’ line, which is based on the design and colour calibration of actual 1950s items.

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  • Shopping
  • Ebisu

The Kapital brand hails from Japan's denim birthplace of Kojima in Okayama and is best known for its exclusive use of manual processes. All of its techniques – from thread-dyeing, material production and sewing to washes and decoration – have been developed and produced in-house.

Classic items and collection lines are both available at this Ebisu store, with the latter created to match seasonal themes. Items for every occasion can be found here, be it summer festival wear or everyday pieces.

  • Shopping
  • Menswear
  • Ebisu

Another outpost of the Kapital brand, this shop focuses on manual craftsmanship, jeans and skirts. Its signature denim piece is the ‘TH Zipang Real Indigo’ model, which comes packaged in a paulownia wood box. Woven using an old-style loom, these jeans are made with original selvage denim and designed with a thick waist in a relaxed-fit, straight cut.

The ‘Century Denim’ is another highlight, as these jeans are made with the aim of lasting a full 100 years. The fabric is dyed with a blend of natural Japanese persimmon, inks and other dyes, with quilting also added. The shop offers hemming and repairs to meet the specific needs of individual customers.

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