Susur Lee, the local fusion superstar, has given his fans a gift: an affordable alternative to his more famous restaurant, Madeleine's. The master works closely with well-groomed chef Jason Carter to create beautifully composed tapas-sized dishes, each one showing off his trademark intricate combinations. Chillis, citrus, tropical fruits and myriad tastes engage all senses. The open, casual room gets noisy but the clatter, combined with lively waitstaff, creates an air of excitement. The plates are small, so order many and share.