Though it's a hole in the wall, the spartan Mother's Dumplings attracts crowds of locals, who come for silken dumplings stuffed with chicken and mushrooms, pork with pickled cabbage or chives and other gustatory goodies. Fresh delights made onsite - in a tiny, semi-open kitchen - are comfort food from northern China. Wonton soup speckled with ginger and coriander will brighten the greyest day. Ditto for the pork and beef buns, which often sell out. The plastic tables and chairs tend to make this bargain meal a quick affair.