The old guard of the Toronto restaurant scene overlooks the city from a midtown hill. Scaramouche still has the look of a grandiose '80s hotspot: furnishings - and clientele - are brassy. Book ahead for a window seat, and a striking view of downtown (especially in leafless winter). The food is stellar, as refined as can be found in Toronto; for a (slightly) more modestly priced meal, visit the the Pasta Bar next door. Chef Keith Froggett has overseen this gem for more than two decades, and it shows; some things are best left unchanged.