Sometimes Toronto latches on to trends in an embarrassing way - too late, too much, not too good. The city's new-found love of tapas is a case in point, but Cava proves to be an exception to the rule. Tucked away in a nondescript mall in a nondescript neighbourhood, this tapas and wine bar is not trendy, but it will outlast the pretenders. Take the charcuterie: the house-made, cured and dried salamis and chorizos are outstanding. The salt cod cakes, beef cheeks and chocolate desserts possess inventive flair, courtesy of chef Chris McDonald. House brand bubblies - Spanish Cavas, of course - top a hefty wine list of Latin labels. A smart midtown crowd laps it all up.