This neighbourhood trattoria, going strong for 20 years, is a family affair - in many ways, the fifth child of owners Robert and Lucia Martella. Regulars fill the varied rooms day and night, taking in the warm hospitality and Italian culture (antique posters, Claudio Villa's serenades and Fellini flicks on a screen behind the bar). The food follows suit: soups like mama makes, lively pastas and rich risottos. The long display case of antipasti - a cornucopia of salads and starters - is a highlight. Breads are baked on the premises - all the better for soaking up reasonably priced wines. The festivities continue well past suitable family hours.