Amid a concentration of middling so-called Italian eateries, this warm spot is the real deal. It's frequented by a well-heeled neighbourhood crowd, but the hubbub is generated by the creations from the kitchen. Zucca is the baby of chef Andrew Milne-Allan (who pioneered good Italian on College Street) and has been going for a decade. Tuck into a just-right portion of hand-rolled noodles in a sauce of duck ragoût or seasonal vegetables. Follow through with finely braised meats or grilled whole fish - each dish a tribute to a region of the boot country - and save room for chocolate-and-ricotta cheesecake.