Just up the street from Little Italy's collection of middling eateries and fleeting darlings is this charming Mediterranean bistro. Owner Jean-Pierre Centeno has seen the mercurial nature of Toronto's restaurant scene over his long career. So he opened Gamelle (over a decade ago) with an eye to keeping it small and consistent. The plan has worked: the warm room encourages leisurely dining, and you can see and smell your carefully crafted dishes as they are prepared in the tiny open kitchen. In the back, the leafy patio is a summertime haven.