Among a sea of fast-food chains and pubs spilling over with students, this European bar stands out from the crowd. Lean on the marble counter as the day begins, sip a latte and nibble on a brioche. Food is available all day - through lunch and late into the evening for dinner. Best bets are the home-made pastas, especially gnocchi in a gorgonzola sauce and the Pasta Mercurio, broad noodles in a duck ragoût scented with black truffle. Wines are plentiful and the place hums with a low-key buzz. Kitty-corner is the bar's stylish cousin, L'Espresso; in good weather, lounge on the street-side patio.