Dim-sum trolleys are wheeled out all over Chinatown at the weekend in Toronto, but none of the food is as fine as the fare at Lai Wah Heen (though you'll pay for the quality). Although the dining room is somewhat institutional - it is, after all located in the business friendly Metropolitan Hotel - the Cantonese cooking is so good that the setting matters little. Sunday brunch's tasting menu comprises six dim-sum selections and one noodle dish. Portions and presentation are the epitome of delicate: alligator-loin dumplings, banana-and-shrimp mousse and mini abalones to start. The belle of the dinner menu is crispy Peking duck. Midtown visitors can try new sister incarnation Lai Toh Heen (629 Mount Pleasant Road, 416 489 8922).