Fresh fish and seafood dominate the menus, but locally produced salami and pecorino (sheep’s cheese, Sardinia’s main food export) are also widely available, and malloreddus (Sardinian pasta) with sausage and tomato sauce is a standard local dish. Catalan influences include paella and crema catalana. Alghero has its own wines and Anghelu Rùju, a delicious port. For dessert, sample gattò, a sweet made of almonds, honey and orange peel.

The citadel has plenty of restaurants. For typical Sardinian food, Osteria Taverna Paradiso (via Principe Umberto 29, 079 978001) boasts a fine selection of local cheeses. Il Pavone (Piazza Sulis 3, 079 979 584, closed Sun evening) serves a superb squid-ink pasta. On top of pizza, Poco Loco (via Gramsci 8, 079 973 1034) has ten-pin bowling and live music on Friday nights. Lively Al Tuguri (via Maiorca 113, 079 976 772, www.altuguri.it), a favourite with locals, serves high-quality Catalan food in a rustic setting. Andreini (via Arduino 45, 079 982 098), with its candlelit tables and vaulted ceilings, is perfect for a romantic evening – and low prices mean you can afford to sample several courses.

Agriturismo Sa Mandra (Strada Aeroporto Civile, 079 999 150, closed Mon Mar-June, Mon-Thur Oct-Feb), north of the centre near the airport, serves up a traditional Sardinian meat feast, with a set menu of antipasti, suckling pig, lamb or boar; book well in advance.

Dolce & Piccante (Piazza Sventramento 4, no phone) is a fine local deli with a wine cellar, as is Antichi Sapori (via Simon 2, 079 975 814, closed Mon), which specialises in regional produce. Gelateria Arcobaleno (Piazza Civica 33, no phone) serves delicious own-made ice-cream.

Baronda (Piazza della Misericordia 14, 079 975 922, closed Wed) is a chic bar with good music, great cocktails and moreish nibbles, while Café Diva (Piazza Municipio 1, 079 982 306) is a laid-back retreat.

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