Antwerp enjoyed its heyday in the 16th and 17th centuries as the trading centre of Europe. In particular, the diamond industry – begun by Jews escaping Portugal – brought great wealth. This was also a time of great cultural prestige, reflected in the architecture of the period and the work of artists such as Rubens and Van Dyck who lived and painted here – the Rubenshuis (9-11 Wapper, 03 201 1555, http://museum.antwerpen.be/ rubenshuis, closed Mon), where the artist lived and worked, is one of the city’s greatest attractions. The heart of the old town is around the Grote Markt, with its gabled guildhouses and the landmark tower of the Onze Lieve Vrouwekathedraal (Our Lady’s Cathedral), dating from the 14th century. Inside are four Rubens paintings and a dazzling statue of the Virgin Mary. Fanning out from the main square is a labyrinth of tiny streets, worth exploring for their small houses and idiosyncratic shops and cafés. To the west, the Scheldt is the second-largest river in Europe. The old harbour dates back to the time of Napoleon and it’s now a fashionable area sprouting loft apartments and flashy restaurants. Walk through the art deco St Anna foot tunnel for a fine view back across the river to the Antwerp skyline beyond. Also, don’t miss the recently renovated main train station, a stunning piece of early 20th-century ostentation that stands as a cathedral to the golden age of rail travel.

Of the city’s impressive array of cultural institutions, the Royal Museum of Fine Arts (Koninklijk Museum voor Schone Kunsten, 2 Plaatsnijdersstraat, 03 238 7809, http://museum.antwerpen.be/ kmska, closed Mon) is the old master among them. It houses art not just from the first golden age, but also the second, when Delvaux, Ensor, Wouters and Magritte were at their peaks. The high-profile contemporary art museum MUHKA (Museum voor Hedendaagse Kunst van Antwerpen, 32 Leuvenstraat, 03 260 99 99, www.muhka.be, closed Mon) has work from the 1970s onwards. Meanwhile, fashion followers will adore the MoMu (28 Nationalestraat, 03 470 2770, www.momu.be), which celebrates the city’s status as a design centre.

Opened in 2005, the Augustinus Music Centre (Kammenstraat 81, 03 202 4669, www.amuz.be) is an exciting new venue in a converted baroque church on one of Antwerp’s trendiest streets; it’s the perfect example of the city’s ability to successfully mix the old and new.

• Tourist information: 13 Grote Markt (03 232 0103, www.visitantwerpen.be).