Many of the city’s restaurants cluster along Suikerrui and around the Grote Markt. Fish and seafood figures large on most menus. Maritime (4 Suikerrui, 03 233 0758, www.maritime.be) is famous for its mussels, sole and croquettes. For an interesting cross-fertilisation of Belgian and world flavours, head for De Kleine Zavel (2 Stoofstraat, 03 231 9691). In the old harbour, fashionable Chez Fl’Eau (1 Tavernierkaai, 03 225 3637, www.chezfleau.be) is in a magnificent harbour-master’s house that serves up classic dishes, while Het Pomphuis (7 Siberiastraat, 03 770 8625, www.hetpomphuis.be) is exactly what it says, a lofty industrial conversion serving contemporary food. For afternoon tea, cakes or waffles, Désiré de Lille (14-18 Schrijnwerkerstraat, 03 233 6226, www.desiredelille.be) is a must.

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