Passport to passion

It's time to book that romantic weekend away. In the first of our two-part guide to Europe's most sensuous cities, we travel to Istanbul, St Petersburg and Carmpona, among other destinations.

Antwerp
Antwerp may not be the first place you think of for a romantic break. But couples who share a love affair with cutting-edge design should put this vibrant Belgian city at the top of their destination list. Antwerp is a thriving harbourside hub of fashion and architecture. The Nationalestraat area provides a compact focal point for visitors, with its cluster of shops, galleries and sights. Don’t miss the MoMu fashion museum, part of the Flanders Fashion Institute.
For dinner, book table number eight, known as the ‘niche’, at the sophisticated Le Dome restaurant, where a string duet provides the soundtrack to your evening.
Antwerp is a haven of über-stylish B&Bs. Pick of the bunch is the eccentric Charles Rogier XI; three lavish suites are done out with a nod to French, Scottish and English influences. If you can’t get a room there, try the immaculate Slapen Enzo.
Charles Rogier XI, 11 Karel Rogierstraat (00 32 45 299 989/www.charlesrogierxi.be).
B&B £126.
Le Dome, 2 Grote Hondstraat (00 32 32 399 003).
Slapen Enzo, 20 Karel Rogierstraat (00 32 32 162 785/www.slapenenzo.be).
B&B from £91.
Getting there: VLM has return flights to Antwerp from London City from £85.10
(020 7476 6677/ www.vlm-airlines.com).

Berlin
This fast-changing city is a smorgasbord of sights, architecture, shopping and nightlife. From boho Friedrichshain and the increasingly gentrified but trendy neighbourhood of Prenzlauerberg to the upmarket shopping district of Charlottenburg and the hub of Berlin’s gay and lesbian scene, Schöneberg, you can tailor-make a weekend in Berlin to suit your other half.
You’ll find restaurants to entice in each area, such as Schöneberg’s buzzy Storch, serving finely prepared Alsatian food. But, Berlin’s real tour de force is Sunday brunch. No need to rise early, though, as it’s served all day. Café Einstein, a Viennese-style coffee house near the city’s rambling Tiergarten park, is a splendid place to sample one.
Berlin has some of the quirkiest hotels in Europe, in particular the Propeller Island City Lodge. Each room at this kooky guesthouse is a work of art. Narcissists should book into the Mirror Room. Hotel-Pension Funk is one of the city’s most romantic residences. The former apartment of Danish silent movie star Asta Nielsen, it is furnished with elegant 1920s and ’30s satinwood beds and wardrobes.
Café Einstein, 58 Kurfürstenstrasse (00 49 30 261 5096).
Hotel-Pension Funk, 69 Fasanenstrasse (00 49 30 882 97193/
www.hotel-pensionfunk.de). Doubles from £34.
Propeller Island City Lodge, 58 Albrecht Achilles Strasse (00 49 30 891 9016/
www.propeller-island.com). Doubles from £56.
Storch, 54 Wartburgstrasse (00 49 30 784 2059).
Getting there: Air Berlin has return flights to Berlin-Tegel from London Stansted from £88 (0870 738 88 80/ www.airberlin.com).

Carmona

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Situated 24 miles east of Seville, the beautifully preserved town of Carmona is one of the oldest sites in Spain. A sleepy little place, you can easily explore the narrow streets that lie within its crumbling city walls in a day. Be sure not to miss the views from the Puerta de Cordoba or the tower of the Alcázar del la Puerta de Sevilla.
The main reason to visit Carmona is to stay at the magical Parador Alcázar del Rey Don Pedro, which is built on the ruins of a fourteenth-century fortified palace and has breathtaking views of the plains of the river Corbones. Eat in at the Parador’s restaurant, which serves local dishes, such as cartuja de perdiz (partridge with vegetables), prepared with seasonal produce. Otherwise, equally atmospheric are the Meson Molino de la Romera, a few steps down the road from the Parador, and the Meson Sierra Mayor, housed in a converted stable in the centre of Carmona.
Meson Molino de la Romera, calle Pedro I s/n (00 34 954 14 20 00).
Meson Sierra Mayor, calle San Ildefonso 1 (00 34 954 14 44 04).
Parador Alcázar del Rey Don Pedro, calle Alcázars/n (00 34 954 14 10 10/
www.parador.es). Doubles from £95.
Getting there: British Airways has return flights to Seville from London Gatwick from £115 (0870 850 9850/www.ba.com).
Car hire from Seville airport costs around £81 per day with Europcar (0845 722 2525/
www.europcar.co.uk).

Istanbul
Istanbul mixes up a culture clash of Europe and Asia that makes for one heady escape. Base your exploration in the Sultanahmet, a dot of land surrounded by sea on three sides and home to the city’s iconic minarets and domes. The must-visit sight here is the exquisite Tokapi Palace. The palace’s Fourth Court provides a perfect spot for quixotic proposals, while the Harem is perhaps the place to make subtle hints about those fantasies you’ve been imagining. Venturing outside the Sultanahmet, your first stop should be the Grand Bazaar, a maze of interconnecting vaulted passages with shops illuminated by fairy lights.
Kebabs are a highlight of eating out in Istanbul, but it’s doubtful they’ll win many wooing points. Reserve, then, a table at Vogue, which has spectacular views of the city and superb food to boot.
The Four Seasons is Istanbul’s most seductive address (room 315 has a private balcony over the courtyard). Otherwise, opt for the Empress Zoe. Named after a racy eleventh-century ruler (a virgin until she was 50, a harlot thereafter) this 19-room hotel offers bags of affordable style.
Empress Zoe, 10 Adliye Sokak, Sultanahmet (00 90 212 518 2504/www.emzoe.com). Doubles from £37.50.
Four Seasons, 1 Tevkifhane Sokak, Sultanhamet (00 90 212 638 8200/
www.fourseasons.com). Doubles from £110.
Vogue, Spor Caddesi BJK Plaza, Akaretler (00 90 212 227 4404).
Getting there: British Airways has return flights to Istanbul from London Heathrow from £182.40 (0870 850 9850/ www.ba.com).

Malta
It’s a shame that many disregard Malta because of its somewhat staid reputation. But this sunny island slap bang in the middle of the Mediterranean is a saucy little siren. Malta has a thriving film industry and has provided the setting for scenes in ‘Gladiator’, ‘Troy’ and ‘Alexander’. The main town is Valletta, with its Grand Harbour – for an awesome view of both find your way to the Safe Haven Gardens. Mdina, west of Valleta, is the island’s former capital. It’s well worth the visit, even if you can’t get a room at the Xara Palace, the only place to stay in the walled citadel. Gozo, Malta’s smaller, tranquil neighbour, is a 25-minute boat ride from Valleta.
Hotel Juliani on the seafront is a restored townhouse, with 44 rooms, many with sea views. In the centre of the island, the Corinthia Palace Hotel is a five-star hotel, complete with spa facilities – the Valentine’s packages are a bargain.
Corinthia Palace Hotel, De Paule Avenue, San Anton (00 356 2144 0301/
www.corinthiahotels.com). Valentine’s package from £201 per couple.
Hotel Juliani, 12 St George’s Rd, St Julian’s (00 356 2137 7888/www.hoteljuliani.com). Doubles from £90.
Xara Palace, St Paul’s Square, Mdina (00 356 2145 0560/www.xarapalace.com.mt). Weekend packages from £439.
Getting there: Air Malta has return flights to Malta from London Stansted from £113
(0845 6073 710/ www.airmalta.com).

Oporto
Portugal’s second city is dramatically situated in a deep gorge. The steep streets of its bantam, UNESCO-protected old town deliver up a mix of medieval, baroque and art deco architecture, with photo opportunities to be found at every turn. Multicoloured house façades look like they have been painted by number in bright blues, pinks and yellows. It’s dead easy to find your way around, but climb the 200 or so steps of the Torres dos Clerigos to see exactly how the town is laid out.
Further fine panoramas are afforded from the port lodges on the south bank of the river Duoro, where you can taste the city’s famous fortified wine. In the Riberia district, dine with the locals at Dom Tonho, well liked for its gourmet food and river views, or explore the streets back from the waterfront for cheaper options.
The ostentatious Hotel Infante de Sagres is one of Oporto’s most extravagant places to stay. At more than half the price, however, you can book a suite with a view at the eccentric Residencial Castelo Santa Catarina, which is flamboyantly done out with gilt and stucco, chandeliers and Tiffany lamps. The Hotel Internacional, meanwhile, has corner rooms with balconies.
Dom Tonho, 13 Rua Cimo do Muro (00 351 222 004 307).
Hotel Infante de Sagres, Praça D Filipa de Lencastre (00 351 223 398 5 00/
www.hotelinfantesagres.pt). Doubles from £147.
Hotel Internacional, 131 Rua do Almada (00 351 222 005 032/www.hi-porto.com). Doubles from £48.
Residencial Castelo Santa Catarina, 1347 Rua Santa Catarina (00 351 225 095 599). Doubles from £45, suite £52.
Getting there: TAP Air has return flights to Oporto from London Heathrow from £85.90
(0845 601 0932/ www.tap-airportugal.co.uk).

Palma
Most people see little more of Palma de Mallorca than the airport and their resort. A shame indeed, considering that the Mallorcan capital is full of character. Barely touched by the unchecked development of the island, it offers up a delectable platter of fine museums, churches, markets and mansions. A couple of days is enough time to take in the main sights, including the cathedral, with an architectural history spanning from Moorish to Gothic to Gaudi, and to wander the zigzag of avenues known as the ‘Avingudas’.
For opulent waterside dining, the Bahía Mediterráneo tops the bill with opulent surroundings and excellent fish dishes. You should also reserve well in advance for a window seat at the nearby Koldo Royo, arguably the finest restaurant in Mallorca.
For a hotel that hits the right note, it will be hard choosing between the recently opened Hotel Tres, with 360-degree panoramic views from the roof terrace, the Iberian cool of Puro Hotel and the Convent de la Missió, a minimalist oasis with a Japanese garden on the roof, a Turkish bath in the crypt and an excellent wine cellar and restaurant.
Bahía Mediterráneo, 33 Passeig Marítim (00 34 971 45 76 530).
Convent de la Missió, 7a calle Missió (00 34 971 22 73 47/www.conventdelamissio.com). Doubles from £112.
Hotel Tres, Tres Calle Apuntadores (00 34 971 71 73 33/www.hoteltres.com). Doubles from £112.
Koldo Royo, 3 Passeig Martin (00 34 971 73 24 35).
Puro Hotel, 12 Monte Negro (00 34 971 425 450/www.purohotel.com). Doubles from £120 until Feb 16.
Getting there: EasyJet has return flights to Palma from London Stansted from £111.98 (08717 500 100/www.easyjet.co.uk).

St Petersburg
The Cinderella of Russia, St Petersburg is not only the most beautiful of Russian cities – in February blanketed in dazzling white snow – but it is also the most easily navigable. The main sights, the Winter Palace, the vast art collection of the Hermitage Museum, the classical buildings of the Admiralty and the Cathedrals of St Isaac and Our Lady of Kazan are all contained within the central Fontanka area.
The finest place to dine in town is the Dvorianskoe Gnezdo, or the Noble Nest, in the Yusupov Palace precinct – reservations are essential. Other stylish restaurants include the Matrosskaya Tishina, serving the best seafood in St Petersburg, and the straightforwardly named Restaurant, which offers imaginative takes on pre-Revolutionary Russian cuisine.
The nineteenth-century Grand Hotel is St Petersburg’s dream sleep. The recently renovated Astoria Hotel is an art nouveau wonder. Both are five-star hotels, but they do offer excellent-value weekend packages. The easiest way to arrange flights, accommodation and visas for St Petersburg is through a travel agency such as Regent Holidays or Steppes East.
Astoria Hotel, 39 Bolshaya Morskaya Str (00 7 812 313 5757/www.astoria.spb.ru). Weekend packages from £171.
Dvorianskoe Gnezdo, 21 Dekabristkov (00 7 812 312 3205).
Grand Hotel Europe, Nevskiy Prospekt (00 7 812 313 5757/
www.grand-hotel-europe.com). Weekend packages from £403.
Matrosskaya Tishina, 54 Marata (00 7 812 164 4413).
Restaurant, 2 Tamozhenniy Perelouk (00 7 812 327 8979).
Getting there: British Airways has return flights to St Petersburg from London Heathrow from £264.40 (0870 850 9850/ www.ba.com).
Regent Holidays offers three-night packages to St Petersburg, staying in three- or four-star accommodation, from £370 per person (0117 921 1711/www.regent-holidays.co.uk).
Steppes East offers three to four-night packages with flights and airport transfers to St Petersburg, staying at the Astoria, from £890 (01285 651 010/www.steppeseast.co.uk).

Don’t miss more inspired romantic weekends away in the second part of our guide next week.

Jessica Eveleigh
Time Out London Issue 1798: February 2-9 2005

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