Most hotels in Athens were spruced up for the 2004 Olympics, but prices are still high compared to other European capitals. The historic Grande Bretagne (210 333 0000, www.grandebretagne.gr, from €290) smack on Syntagma Square, is the epitome of old-fashioned opulence. The revamped Hilton (Vas Sofias 46, 210 728 1000, www.athens.hilton.com, from €270) has been transformed from stodgy to slick, while neon pink Fresh Hotel (Sofokleous 26, 210 524 8511, www.freshhotel.gr, from €125) injects modern style into a seedy patch downtown – and is within walking distance of all the major sites and trendy bars. The most fashionable newcomer is Periscope (Haritos 22, 210 729 7200, www.periscope.gr, from €190), a concept hotel in exclusive Kolonaki, where live cityscapes are projected in the lobby from the rooftop periscope. The best budget option is Central (Apollonos 21, 210 323 4357, www.centralhotel.gr, from €99), an immaculate, unpretentious hotel on a quiet side street in Plaka.

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