Puglia, especially the Terra di Bari, is justly famous for its Romanesque cathedrals and churches: the towns of Altamura, Barletta and Bitonto are recommended, accessible by a slow but picturesque local train from Bari. Altamura, dramatically sited on the edge of the High Murge escarpment, is also famed for its bread. The bakers of the Città del Pane were recently awarded a DOP to safeguard their delectable creations, noted for their thick, crisp crusts and deep yellow dough. Visit the bakery and shop of Fratelli di Gesù (via Eleonora Pimentel 17, Altamura, 080 314 1213) for a tasting.

The sweltering port town of Brindisi (also served by Ryanair) is around 60 miles south of Bari, and is traditionally regarded as the gateway to the Greek Ionian islands (ferries to Corfu, Patras and Igoumenitsa are the most frequent). Nowadays, however, it is also the point of entry for tourists holidaying in a trulli, the distinctive, hive-shaped and whitewashed buildings for which southern Puglia is renowned.