Food is one of the main reasons for visiting Bari. The archetypal Pugliese dish, orecchiette con le rape – pasta shaped like ‘little ears’ and served with a pungent mixture of vegetables and anchovies – is on every menu, alongside patate e cozze (potatoes baked with mussels) and zuppa di pesce (a dense fish soup). Fresh grilled fish is also a staple. Pugliese wine, white and red, has a growing reputation for quality and has the advantage of being very cheap. Go to Enoteca De Pasquale (via Marchese di Montrone 87, 080 521 3192) to taste and buy some striking examples.

La Pignata (Corso Vittorio Emanuele 173, 080 523 2481, closed Mon) is a refined and elegant restaurant in the centre of town, especially notable for its seafood, while Piccinni (Via Piccinni 28, 080 521 1227, www.piccinniristorante.it, closed Sun) is the best bet for Pugliese classics such as orecchiette. Opposite the harbour, Hosteria al Gambero (via de Tullio 8, 080 521 6018, closed Sun) is excellent for fresh fish cooked simply. Gyrosterria Yannis (via Re Manfredi 22, 080 528 3094) is a relaxed venue for Greek cuisine, which has had a long presence in Bari. Those seeking a lively, young crowd should visit Gargà (via Palazzo di Città 58, mobile 333 277 1377), which pumps out music into the early hours, and during the day provides a quiet ambience for those who’ve overindulged.