Delicious grilled meats are served kebab-style at street stalls and in restaurants. Most restaurants also offer good fish. Many of the revered, affordable restaurants are in the old Bohemian quarter of Skandarlija. These include Tri Sesira (Skardarska 29, 324 7501), Sesir Moj (Skardarska 27, 322 8750) and Ima Dana (Skardarska 38, 323 4422). One street over, Porto (Frankusca 52, 322 5624) specialises in seafood. Also downtown, Jevrem (Gospodar Jevremova 36, 328 1131) serves hearty portions of local cuisine in a pleasant setting.

Bars are plentiful and affordable. Bottled beer, considered a genteel drink, can cost much more than beer from the tap. The Plato Café terrace (Akademski Plato 1, 303 0633) fills with a bright young crowd, and there’s an equally lively atmosphere at the Idiot (Dalmatinska 13, no phone). Libre! (Dzordza Vasingtona 40, 322 5445) usually offers the best buzz on a street full of bars. A friendly downtown pub with good cheap food is ? (Kralja Petra I 6, 635 421).