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The embodiment of upmarket surfer chic, Biarritz effortlessly mixes celebrities on spa weekends with slackers on surf beaches, neatly managing to avoid the silicone madness of the Côte d’Azur. Just 15 minutes from the Spanish border, Biarritz is perfect for a weekend trip, combining the elegance of a belle époque seaside resort with the distinctive sights and tastes of the Basque region.
Biarritz began as a whaling port whose sailors set out across the Atlantic from the notorious Bay of Biscay. The transformation to fashionable resort began with Spanish countess Eugénie de Montijo, who spent her summers here. Her husband Napoleon III built her a summer palace overlooking the sea, now the Hôtel du Palais, and, nearby, the domed neo-Byzantine Chapelle Impériale (rue Pellot, 05 59 22 37 10, tours Thur 3-5pm, closed Sun Nov-Mar). Aristocracy followed, and a notable British presence left a passion for golf (there are two renowned courses) and rugby.
Modern Biarritz is stylish, attracting a more discreet line in showbiz stars than Cannes or St Tropez. Gabled Basque houses stand near fanciful 19th-century mock châteaux and art deco villas. Aside from the architecture, the beaches are lovely. One of Biarritz’s greatest pleasures is a stroll along the seafront: the sweeping, sandy Grande Plage runs on to the Plage Miramar. You can stride around the rocky headlands, to the old fishermen’s port with its minuscule cottages; the Rocher de la Vierge (Virgin’s Rock), which is subtly floodlit at night; the sheltered little Plage du Port Vieux; and the colossal breakers of the exposed Plage de la Côte des Basques. And to enter into the spirit of the place, try the École du Surf (102 rue Pierre de Chevigné, 05 59 23 15 31, www.surftraining.com) for courses lasting between one hour to one week.
There are rainy-day activities too. The Hôtel Miramar houses a thalassotherapy centre (13 rue Louison Bobet, 05 59 41 30 00), renowned for restoring health (at a price), as does the Thermes Marins (80 rue de Madrid, 05 59 23 01 22). The Musée de la Mer (esplanade du Rocher de la Vierge, 05 59 22 33 34, www.museedelamer.com) is a family attraction, with turtles, sharks and seals that provide visual entertainment at feeding times (10.30am & 5pm daily). The Musée du Chocolat (avenue Beau Rivage, 05 59 41 54 64) tells of the Basque cultivation of the cocoa bean with rich tasting sessions. The small Musée Historique de Biarritz (rue Broquedis, 05 59 24 86 28, closed Mon, Sun) presents local history in the former Anglican church, with photos of every visiting British aristocrat.
• Tourist information: Square d’Ixelles (05 59 22 37 10, www.biarritz.fr).
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