Bayonne (tourist information 05 59 46 01 46, www.bayonne-tourisme.com) is a rowdier historic town, which is famed for its bull mania. It has a fine Gothic cathedral, a covered market and tapas bars lining the riverbanks.

If you’re staying any length of time in Biarritz, you should head inland to truly appreciate Basque culture in villages such as Sare, Ascain, Espelette and Ainhoa, with their large red-and-white Basque houses and galleried churches. There are several interesting local wines here also (most notably Irouléguy), which have been enjoying a renaissance in recent years. The surrounding countryside is also perfect for walking and border-hopping on the old smugglers’ trails that cross the mountains between France and Spain.

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