Basque specialities include piperade (a ham, pepper, tomato and onion mixture), chipirons (baby squid), meat and fish cooked a la plancha (cooked on an open hotplate in its own fat); alcoholic tipples include cider or Patxaran (a liqueur made from aniseed, wild prunes and vanilla).

Biarritz boasts several inventive, good-value restaurants. For just- landed seafood, head to Chez Albert (Port de Pecheurs, 05 59 24 43 84, closed Jan-mid Feb). Minimalist modern Sissinou (5 avenue Foch, 05 59 22 51 50) has a growing reputation for modernised Basque dishes, while recently opened L’Huitrier à la Plancha (22 rue Harispe, 05 59 41 01 41) serves great seafood platters in a friendly atmosphere. Béatrice Viateau still updates terroir (local cuisine) in a great-value menu at the Clos Basque (12 rue Louis Barthou, 05 59 24 24 96). We also recommend the offerings at friendly Bar du Marché (8 rue des Halles, 05 59 24 16 91). Miremont (1 place Georges Clemenceau, 05 59 24 01 38) is a tea shop with views from the first floor and fine cakes.

For bar-hopping, visit the section of rue Mazagran leading down to the place du Port Vieux. You’ll find DJs and plenty of cocktails at the fashionable Ventilo Caffe (30 rue Mazagran, 05 59 24 31 42), frequented by the hipper (but older) end of the surfing fraternity. The tapas bar of choice in the old port is La Santa Maria (esplanade Port Vieux, 05 59 24 53 11). Le Caveau (4 rue Gambetta, 05 59 24 16 17) is the nightclub du jour.

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