The Basque country is Spain’s culinary powerhouse, and visitors to Bilbao are spoilt for choice. Try Beltz the Black (Alameda de Mazarredo 61, 944 253 300, www.granhoteldominebilbao.com) in the Gran Hotel Domine, Yandiola (Campo de Volantín 15, 944 134 013, www.yandiola.com, closed Sun) and Baita Gaminiz (Alameda de Mazarredo 20, 944 242 267, closed Sun). The latter is a branch of the famed Gaminiz gastronomic temple, a 15-minute journey from town in Zamudio.

For a piece of acclaimed chef Martin Berasategui on a budget, try the restaurant at the Guggenheim (944 239 333). Make it clear when booking if you want the set lunch deal (€13.90) as there is a separate dining area for that.

Even for casual snacking, Bilbao surpasses itself. Where the rest of Spain contents itself with standard tapas of meaty sauces and vinegar-drenched fish, Bilbao has creative pintxos, stacking peppers, seafood and miniature edibles in unusual combinations and skewering them with a toothpick. Help yourself from the trays on the bar – the barman will tally the toothpicks at the end. It’s not the cheapest way to eat, but it’s fun. Do this in the Casco Viejo – perhaps at the Irrintzi (C/Santa María 8, 944 167 616), the Río Oja (C/Perro 4, 944 150 871) or Xukela (C/Perro 2, 944 159 772). Calle Barrencalle, the nightlife hub, specialises in bars. A slightly sparkling white wine, txakolí, and small shots of beer (zuritos) are local favourites.

Two other types of places merit mention: the cider house (sidrería), where a set price pays for a mass of char-grilled meat and endless cider; and classic coffee houses, such as the Café Iruña (Colón del Larreátegui 13, 944 237 021).

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