Once raw and trashy, Bratislava’s clubs now sport considerably more recessed lighting, house DJs and cocktails. The Jazz Café (Venturská, no phone) is a good example, with funk music, salmon tartar burgers and a slick crowd. Cirkus Barok (Rázusovo nábrezie, 5464 2091, www.cirkusbarok.sk) is the latest in a long line of Slovak lounge bars, which are apparently incomplete without Cinzano and Saturday strippers. Head to the bunker below Bratislava Castle for the Ucko (Nábrezie arm gen L Svobodu, no phone, www.ucko.sk) and the city’s hippest DJ scene.

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