'The night is in nappies,' say porteños at midnight. Not as diverse as New York, or as boozy as London, still BA's bar and club scene is funky, friendly and goes on and on. If you tour by cab (which costs pennies at the moment) you can pack in a happy beer on the terrace at converted mansion Milión (Paraná 1048, +541148159925), great cocktails or some of the best wines in the city at Gran Bar Danzón (Libertad 1161, +541148111108, www.granbardanzon.com.ar), downtown drinks at lovely Dad´ (San Martín 941, +541143144787), the Shamrock (Rodríguez Peña 1220, +541148123584, www.theshamrockbar.com) for meeting people or a boogie in the basement, more late-night boozing at kitsch and kinky Mundo Bizarro (Guatemala 4802, +541147731967) and wrap it all up as the sun rises on the River Plate at Mint (Avenida Costanera Rafael Obligado, +541147715870). If tango is your thing, catch a live band at Club Torquato Tasso (Defensa 1575, +541143076506) or join the new dance scene at La Catedral (Sarmiento 4006, mobile +541553251630).

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