Extending four or five blocks round the Plazoleta Cortázar in Palermo Viejo are all the coolest designer clothing outlets. For a colourful bourgeois-bohemian look, Rapsodia (Arguibel 2899, +541147722716/www.rapsodia.com.ar)is a must-visit; for cutting edge post-punk designs and accessories try AY Not Dead (Soler 4193, +541148664855). Or head to luxurious Recoleta mall Patio Bullrich (Avenida del Libertador 750, +541148144700) – check out Trosman for amazing womenswear or Etiqueta Negra for the guys. Antique hunters should cruise Defensa street in San Telmo; essential stops include El Churrinche for lamps (Defensa 1031, +541143627612/www.churrinche.com.ar) and Silvia Petroccia (Defensa 1002, +541143620156) for art nouveau candelabra. For furniture, vintage toys and - you never know - lost Picassos, hop to the Flea Market (Avenida Alvarez Thomas, and Concepción Arenal). Classy handcrafted Argentinian items are stacked high at Arandú (Paraguay 1259, +541148166191) - perfect for gifts.

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