First thing to say: it’s expensive. In particular, beware of the wine prices; the mark-up is often exorbitant, pushing your reaction to the bill from an involuntary swallow to flat-out panic. But assuming your credit card is your friend, head for Kommandanten (Ny Adelgade 7, 33 12 09 90), the only Danish restaurant with two Michelin stars. Then there’s the swanky dining at 1.th (Herluf Trollesgade 9, 33 93 57 70, www.1th.dk), which you need to book, and even pay for, two weeks in advance. There are also a few trendy hybrids in the vein of Café Ketchup (Pilestræde 19, 33 32 30 30), which converts into a lounge bar and then a club later on in the evening.

If you find yourself needing to eat on a budget, try a smørredbrød. These open sandwiches have all manner of savoury toppings, typically including boiled egg and dill, beetroot, mackerel, roast onions, cold meats and goose or pork dripping. There are takeaway smørredbrød kiosks throughout the city centre but Ida Davidsen is the queen of them all (Store Kongensgade 70, 33 91 36 55).

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