Introduction

Young, trendy, chic… Dublin? Oh yes. Dublin might look like the old grey town of Europe, but don’t be fooled – this is a city on the move. Its nightlife is famous, its museums are impressive, its restaurants creative and its shops well worth your time. And as for the Guinness…you’ll never taste better.

For partiers, the first stop is still Temple Bar, with its winding cobblestone streets and dozens of touristy bars. From there, it’s a short walk to Dame Street, which is lined with slightly more upmarket restaurants and pubs. This is also where you’ll find the towers of Dublin Castle (677 7129, www.dublincastle.ie), once the seat of English colonial power in Ireland. Today, along with a few government offices, the castle holds the amazing (and free) Chester Beatty Library (407 0750, www.cbl.ie, closed Mon Oct-Apr), which holds a collection of ancient art and hundreds of illuminated manuscripts.

Heading west, Dame Street becomes College Green, leading to Trinity College, alma mater to Oscar Wilde, Samuel Beckett and Jonathan Swift. Trinity’s 16th-century campus makes for a pleasant stroll, and its Old Library (608 1661, www.icd.ie/library) holds the most famous book in Ireland: a medieval illuminated gospel known as the Book of Kells. From here you are within striking distance of Grafton Street. Usually jammed with tourists, artists and buskers, it can be a joy or torture depending on your perspective.

The other end of Dame Street is the city’s church zone. First are the whitewashed walls of Christ Church Cathedral (Christchurch Place, 677 8099, www.cccdub.ie), founded in 600 by Strongbow, the first conqueror of Ireland. A few blocks away, St Patrick’s (St Patrick’s Close, 453 9371, www.stpatrickscathedral.ie) has a glorious nave.

Head further west and you’ll find the ‘Church of Guinness’ (Guinness Storehouse, St James’s Gate, 408 4800, www.guinness-storehouse.com), where a hefty €14 entry fee buys two hours of black-stuff madness and a trip to the Gravity Bar.

Across the river in the northern half of Dublin, make your way to busy O’Connell Street, and up to the city’s most political monument – the General Post Office. On Easter Day 1916 Patrick Pearse stood on its steps to read a proclamation declaring a free Irish Republic. You can still put your fingertips into the bullet holes that riddle the columns and the façade.

At the top of O’Connell Street, Parnell Square holds the absorbing Dublin Writers’ Museum (18 Parnell Square, 872 2077, www.writersmuseum.com), with letters, notes and personal items from the likes of Behan, Swift, Wilde and Joyce.

• Tourist information: St Andrew’s Church, Suffolk Street (605 7700, 0800 0397 000, www.visitdublin.com).

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