Princes Street’s once-elegant façade was defaced by a motley range of chain stores years ago, and only a few distinctive stores linger to fight the tide of globalised retail. Jenners at No.48 (225 2442), the last proud remnant of local department stores, still calls itself the world’s oldest independent shop. On and around the Royal Mile is the place to get twee souvenirs of the kilt/whisky/shortbread-in-a-tin variety.

The traditional gentility of George Street is a fitting repository for expensive goods behind appealing shopfronts. For antiques, the best bets are Thistle Street, Broughton Street, Victoria Street and Causewayside, with more trendy shops selling gifts and mementos. Those wanting to avoid tartan tat should also try Cockburn Street and the Grassmarket.