African adventures
From 3,000-year-old empires and classic game reserves to hip beach resorts and modern cities bursting with colour, holiday options in Africa have never been more enticing
For culture: Ethiopia
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Ethiopia
has had more than its share of problems: it’s still poverty-stricken in
many areas and the threat of famine is never far away. Yet Africa’s
oldest independent country has another side altogether, with
taupe-coloured mountains and gorges that seem to plunge miles into the
depths of the earth. It’s a country that’s steeped in history;
hospitality, charm and good manners are renowned.
The capital,
Addis Ababa, boasts monuments celebrating Ethiopia’s victories over
past occupiers, royal palaces, the imposing Organisation of African
Unity building and a vibrant café culture (Ethiopian coffee is
excellent). It is a city bursting with energy during the day; 3
million-plus inhabitants scuttle along the city’s labyrinthine streets
and markets to cries of ‘Bole, Bole, Bole’ as bus drivers announce
their destinations.
Addis Ababa is also host to the
biggest mass-participation race in Africa, the Great Ethiopian Run,
which attracted 26,000 runners last November, including some of the
finest homegrown and Kenyan talent. In recent years a handful of
Londoners have participated, competing alongside greats like Haile
Gebrselassie, winner of two Olympic 10,000m gold medals.
Tourists
who prefer more leisurely activities should take a trip down the
bustling Bole Road – the route out to the airport – where there’s a
modern mix of cafés, restaurants and galleries. It’s a great place to
try injera, the spongy pancake-like circular bread that is the national
dish, usually eaten with spicy meats, vegetables and pulses.
If
you are planning to tour the country, follow Ethiopia’s well-worn
‘Historic Route’ that loops round from Addis Ababa through the ancient
towns in the north of the country and returns to the capital. At the
northernmost reach of the trail, close to the Eritrean border, is Axum.
Formerly centre of the 3,000-year-old Axumite Empire, its
sixteenth-century cathedral is the holiest site in Ethiopia. On
November 30, the day of the birth of St Mary of Zion, tens of thousands
of religious devotees – some of whom have travelled for weeks – descend
on the town, bringing it to a virtual standstill.
Situated 148
miles south-east of Axum is a remote settlement called Lalibela, where
in the thirteenth century 11 carefully crafted churches were hewn out
of the mountains over a period of 24 years. One of the larger towns in
the trail, 750km north of the capital, is Gondar, renowned for its wine
and opulent castles, one built by each successive emperor, some
containing steam baths, courts for entertainment, banquet halls and
swimming pools.
Finish your tour of the Historic Route at Bahar
Dar where the dust-weary traveller can enjoy one of the country’s most
spectacular water features. Lake Tana is landlocked Ethiopia’s largest
body of water and has a host of monasteries that can be explored by
boat. Nearby are the Blue Nile Falls, which reach 1,280 feet wide when
in flood, an awesome sight for even the most seasoned tourist.
Getting there British Airways franchise partner BMED operates flights from London to Addis Ababa. From £520 return (www.ba.com).
Stay at Ghion Hotel, Addis Ababa (00 251 1 513222). Doubles from £30 a night.
Ras Hotel, Addis Ababa (00 251 1 517060). Doubles from £10 a night.
Yeha Hotel, Axum (00 251 1 750377). Doubles from £50 per night.
