Tokyo
With state-of-the-art gadgetry, cult fashion and mind-blowing department stores – plus ’Lost in Translation‘ moments along the way – Tokyo is the place to go for thoroughly modern retail kicks.
The pavements are thronged with people, all of them extremely well
behaved: they won’t even think of crossing the road until the traffic
lights say they can. The roads are crammed with slow-moving, strangely
unfamiliar cars, so retro you’d think they were ancient but for the
fact that they gleam. Electronic advertising hoardings sing quaint
tum-ti-tum tunes for even the most sober and serious of sales messages.
Welcome to Tokyo.
Japan is another planet, it’s said, but Tokyo is also one of the most
exciting, engaging places you can land. Although it’s one of the most
expensive cities in the world, it still has much to offer the chic
shopper. To beat the jetlag, sleep on an overnight flight (12 hours)
which gets you in at 9am, ready to go.
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Start in the city’s most famous shopping district, Ginza, in the heart
of this vast metropolis. Smart and elegant, the streets are safe and –
though invariably busy – welcoming. On the main drag, also called
Ginza, you’ll find labyrinthine department stores such as Mitsukoshi
and Matsuya, both of which have enormous food halls in their basements.
A few doors down, there’s one of the biggest branches of super-cheap
clothes chain Uniqlo (T-shirts for less than a fiver!), and not far
away a Muji and US import Barneys. As a good pit-stop between shops,
you can enjoy excellent views of the area from the twenty-eighth-floor
bar at the nearby Conrad Tokyo hotel in Shiodome and sample the menu at
its Gordon Ramsay restaurant, Cerise (one of two he owns in the hotel).
If you want to buy electronics, don’t miss BIC Camera, a multi-storey
shop with wall-to-wall high-definition flat-screen TVs, bargain-price
digital cameras and much more.
Gadget fiends should also visit Akihabara, known as Electric Town, the
huge street of electronics shops which is further afield. Take the
Ginza Line subway train to Shimbashi then go four stops to Akihabara on
the Yamanote Line, and you’ll be engulfed by neon-lit tech shops the
second you step outside the station.
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| Tsukiji fish market - for your sushi needs
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Early risers and those too jetlagged to sleep should make the most of
their predicament with a visit to Tsukiji fish market which sells every
sort of seafood (it’s not on every morning, so check with your
concierge first). Get there by 6am to see the tuna auction, which is
loud, frenzied and intense – like the London Stock Exchange with an
ocean tang. There’s freshly caught fish from all over the world,
ranging from horse mackerel to puffer fish and Walleye Pollock roe. The
future of this historic market is ominously described as ‘under
discussion’ and it may be moved elsewhere, so catch it while you can.
To the west of the centre is Omotesando, where the shops themselves are
the destination. The Prada store here was designed by Herzog + de
Meuron, the team responsible for Tate Modern, and is a breathtaking,
multi-storey, glass structure. Next door is Comme des Garçons in a
splendid, swooping-walled, curvy building by Future Systems, and nearby
is A Bathing Ape, the deeply cool Japanese label with a sister store in
Soho’s Upper James Street. There’s also Omotesando Hills, a shopping
centre where the floors corkscrew around so you need never take the
stairs.