Ski breaks
The snow has been late coming to the Alps this year, but now it‘s here there‘s no stopping keen skiers. Time Out finds three brilliant destinations with something for everyone
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Méribel, France
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For good all-rounders
Méribel, France
Gliding up the mountain in a bubble-lift, I peer out as the chocolate-coloured chalets of Méribel disappear into the valley. The vast snowy mountains are dotted with fir trees that look like they’ve been dusted with icing sugar and the only sound is the gentle hum of lift cables overhead.
I emerge from the lift into the morning sun, and it’s on my first run down, gulping lung-fulls of icy air as the wind brushes my cheeks, that I remember what skiing’s all about: adrenalin, fresh air and mother nature. Nothing beats the thrill of the first run of the season.
Established as a ski resort in 1838 by British Colonel Peter Lindsay, Méribel’s draw is its sheer size and prime location: 150 kilometres of easily accessible pistes, set in the stunning Trois Vallées area that is linked to the chic Courchevel (favoured by Russian millionaires and the Beckhams) on one side and Val Thorens (Europe’s highest resort) on the other. That’s a whopping 600 kilometres of skiing in the entire region, served by 189 lifts. There’s no chance of getting bored on these pistes.
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Méribel appeals to skiiers of all levels, making it a clever option for groups of mixed abilities. It’s excellent for intermediates thanks to a whole squiggly network of blue and red runs, but it’s also fine for beginners because of the plentiful supply of nice easy greens and blues, (check out the Altiport area). The expert skier isn’t neglected either, as there are plenty of challenging blacks and off-piste opportunities – such as skiing down from the Combe du Vallon, the valley’s highest point at 2,950 metres, reached by a gondola from Mottaret.
Méribel is also a fine destination for those more suited to après-ski. Le Rond Point (04 79 00 37 51) is located at the top of the Rhodos 1 gondola, and is a great place to finish your day, ski-boots still on, with a few bevvies and live music from 5-7pm. Then there’s the infamous Dick’s Tea Bar (04 79 08 60 19), where you can drink and dance until 4am.
With all the muscle-punishing activities, a comfortable, soothing place to stay and recuperate is essential. Méribel has several seriously expensive options, but a far cannier alternative is a small, intimately run chalet.
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| Just Soh's snug Méribel chalets |
The quirky village of Les Allues is a ten-minute drive to the pistes of Méribel and far more chilled than the town centre. I’m booked into Le Lycene Bleu. Recently opened by British ski friends Justine Parkinson and Melanie Soh-Banwell (going under the company name Just Soh), it’s a sleek wooden chalet with wood-burning stove and impressive views of the Alps, and the emphasis is on pampering and relaxation. Boutique hotel looks (silk curtains, swish spa-like bathrooms and lots of attention to detail) are combined with luxurious creature comforts (under-floor geothermal heating, goose-down pillows, delicious food and good wine). And there’s some great added extras: ceramic hair straighteners in your room (a blessing for post-ski hair disasters); a selection of aromatherapy oils; Molton Brown beauty goodies; and a TV/DVD player with a generous selection of films.
Hearty but well-considered dishes like marshmallow-soft racks of lamb with sweet potato mash and pancakes folded in chocolate and ice-cream are served up by the softly spoken chalet hosts Yvette and Kent (you’ll want to take them home with you). Le Lycene stands out from other hotels and chalets I’ve previously stayed in for its genuine homeliness.
As I indulge in a therapeutic massage to soothe my aching limbs I reflect on an exhausting but invigorating weekend. With fresh air in my lungs, images of slopes and blue skies in my head and a warm feeling in my soul, the grime of London couldn’t be further from my thoughts.
Getting there
EasyJet (www.easyjet.com) flies to Geneva from London Gatwick, prices from £43 return. Transfer buses to Méribel.
Stay at
Le Lycene Bleu costs from £519 per person per week. Includes four evening meals, breakfast and afternoon tea each day. Also includes transfers and all-inclusive bar. Prices from £337 per person for a long weekend (Thur-Sun: includes three nights, one evening meal and breakfast and tea each day).The lodge’s private chauffeur is available (8am until 8.30pm daily) to take you from the slopes to the bars. All prices exclude flights, equipment hire and lift pass. For enquiries and reservations ring 020 7624 0404, email reservations@justsoh.com or visit www.justsoh.com.
Méribel lowdown
Lift passes €29.50 per day; €156 for six days.
Ski and snowboard lessons Ecole du Ski Français (04 92 21 90 46/ www.esf-montgenevre.com).
Ski hire Freeride (04 79 00 52 21/www.freeride.fr).
Webcam, piste map and more info www.merinet.com
You’ll love it if you...
1 Want to ski, ski, ski – it’s the biggest ski area in Europe.
2 Want to go sightseeing in the gondolas – there are 16 (a world record).
3 Don’t speak a word of French (it’s a very English resort – 40 per cent of the vistors at last count).
4 Are a powder-hunting snowboarder or an intermediate skiier.
5 Like a good pamper post-piste.
