Travel solutions: Croatia

What could be more idyllic than chartering a yacht and going island-hopping around Croatia? Well how about getting someone else to handle the awkward sailing bit?

With both sails raised and full, we are heeling so far over to port that I’ve had to jam my legs into the deck’s table to stop myself tumbling down into the sea. In the galley below, glasses shift and creak and water slaps against the portholes on one side. Our skipper might be unconcerned by our precarious angle, as we zip through the water at 10 knots, but I’m not convinced we aren’t going to end up at the bottom of the Adriatic, new sunglasses and all.

From the skies above, just before landing at Split, it had all looked much more peaceful. As you descend through the clouds, a handful of Croatia’s thousand or more islands appear, scattered across the Adriatic like floating pebbles, each surrounded by a rim of turquoise water which turns navy blue as the seabed drops off. Split, Croatia’s second largest city, is the perfect base from which to explore this unique coastline.

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Stunning as the aerial view is, this part of the world might have been created with sailors in mind: islands are strewn at convenient intervals so there’s always somewhere to anchor for the night; deserted islands with free mooring are ten a penny; the waters are clear and many fathoms deep and the weather is a happy mix of rich blue skies and brisk winds. Twelve years after the end of the Serbo-Croatian conflict, this region, in a country which has yet to get the Euro, has re-established itself as a destination for some of Europe’s best sailing.

Sail Croatia's 45-foot yacht, Jeanneau Sun Odyssey 45

Sail Croatia’s yachts have been a regular feature of local marinas since 2003. When it comes to choosing its best sailing holiday, there are three options. ‘Bareboating’ means taking the helm yourself and is only suitable for experienced sailors (mooring in a busy marina is no easy feat, never mind the sailing). At the opposite end of the spectrum is the ‘fully crewed’ option, where you enjoy the services of a skipper, hostess and chef. But the compromise most people opt for is simply ‘skippered’: the captain takes care of the boat while you concentrate on eating, drinking and relaxing on deck. Keen but inexperienced sailors can give the skipper a hand and even take the wheel, but if you prefer to do as little as possible, that’s okay too. An added advantage of having a skipper is that, technical stuff aside, they act as guides who know the best islands for vineyards, fish restaurants, dramatic cliffs or plain and simple quiet, where nobody will bother you except the odd sheep.

The company’s fleet of French-made yachts range in length from 35ft to 54ft. Though based in Split, it’s possible to start your journey elsewhere. We are aboard the biggest, the 54ft Jeanneau Sun Odyssey. Below deck is a neat saloon of polished wood, cream leather and umpteen cupboards tucked into every nook and cranny. For sleeping, there are four double cabins, each with its own en-suite shower room and, while it’s certainly compact, what space there is is cleverly designed.

Given the sheer number of islands it’s no surprise that there are numerous itineraries to choose from. The larger, better-known islands are quieter in May and June, and then again towards the end of the season in September and October. Hvar was once an important trading outpost of the Venetian empire and its historic wealth finds echoes today in the sophisticated types patronising the cafés of the piazza at Hvar Town. Hvar’s popular marina can get full by the end of the afternoon, but the nearby and intriguingly-named Devil’s Islands are equipped with both a modern marina and a gem of a restaurant, Meneghello’s, where the lobster and squid comes fresh from the nets. Another large island, Brac, is home to the Adriatic region’s highest peak – Vidova Gora – as well as the Zlatni Rat (Golden Cape) beach.

Sailing north-west you reach the less-visited Kornati archipelago, made up of more than 100 islands, mostly uninhabited. If you look closely, lines of stone wall thread up the sides of each island, each marking the border of a different owner’s land. While the archipelago was designated a national park a few years back and little development is permitted, the walls hark back to centuries-old family ownership and selling your portion is frowned upon. One island here, Mana, has sheer cliffs that dip to water as deep as Centre Point is tall. You can moor up for the night unless it’s too choppy, in which case it’s only a couple of hours’ sailing to the busier, mainland towns of Tribunj or Vodice, with their bustling cafés and excellent ice-cream shops.

For a further break from the open sea’s winds, it’s possible to head inland towards more serene waters. Skradin is a good place to start or finish your journey, with its tidy marina and bar, the Caffe Bar Arka. Visit the latter on a festival night and the locals will be boozing and singing soft-rock classics until dawn. Up in the hills, no more than 20 minutes’ winding drive away, seek out the hamlet of Bicine and its hilltop restaurant, Konoba Kod Jokata, for an authentically rustic Croatian feast of slow-cooked, smoky lamb with onion, pepper and olive oil-soaked potatoes. The local brandy ‘Pelinkovac’ (more like a sweet, syrupy port) will be proferred before and after the meal; in between order a large carafe of the (very good) local red wine.

But whether you’re up in the hills for the evening or down at sea level, sipping a cool drink at a harbourside bar, you’ll still feel like you’re gently rocking with the boat’s movement after a day out on the waves.

A week’s sailing in June on Jeanneau Sun Odyssey 45 (sleeps six) costs £3,140; on Jeanneau Sun Odyssey 54 (sleeps eight) the cost is £4,460. Includes skipper, cleaning, airport transfers and local guides. Flights, insurance, fuel, mooring and meals are extra. Sail Croatia (0871 733 8686/www.sailcroatia.net).

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