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The city view from the north shore
Sydney Mardi Gras
From the outrageous Gay and Lesbian Mardi Gras to the best restaurants and music festivals, Time Out gets the inside info on summer down under from Time Out Sydney
Come the Australian summertime Sydney becomes the country’s undisputed party town. If you’re planning to visit before the end of March, the chances are that you’ll be landing in the middle of a massive festival or street parade.
For a start, this year marks the thirtieth anniversary of the annual Gay and Lesbian Mardi Gras, which turns the city into a flamboyant parade of drag queens, butch bois and muscle Marys who leave a trail of glitter and false eyelashes in their wake. If you’re not in Sydney on March 1 for the actual Mardi Gras party and parade – traditionally headed by the Dykes on Bikes troupe roaring through the city on Harleys – the month preceding it is full of parties and theatre shows, a film festival, forums and poetry readings. For the full gleaming guide, and to buy tickets, visit www.mardigras.org.au.
This is a city with a flamboyant approach to culture: there are countless music festivals throughout the summer. Good Vibrations on February 16 is a top-quality festival for those who like a groove – Kanye West, Cypress Hill and The Rapture are on the bill. Tickets cost $120 (£53.21). Check out St Jerome’s Laneway Festival at Circular Quay on March 2 or V Festival Sydney on March 29.
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When it comes to eating and drinking, it’s a rare foodie who doesn’t put Sydney near the top of their most-loved destinations. The choice is staggering, from tastebud-thrilling seafood to numerous buzzy outdoor bars. The new incarnation of Rockpool (107 George Street, The Rocks; www.rockpool.com) is even better than the first and is a fish-lovers dream, while the Bentley Bar (320 Crown Street, Surrey Hills; www.thebentley.com.au) is kooky and progressive, even by local standards.
Finding a place to stay shouldn’t, in theory, be a problem in Sydney with its supply of hotels, guest houses and hostels. Trying to find a bed on the busier weekends – such as the Mardi Gras parade weekend – can be another matter, however. Try the Chelsea Guest House (49 Womerah Avenue, Darlinghurst; 02 9380 5994/www.chelseaguesthouse.com.au), an old house with an Italian-style garden. For something really upmarket, check out Blue Sydney (The Wharf at Woolloomooloo; 02 9331 9000). Housed in an old ‘finger wharf’ that juts out over the water, it has a vast cocktail lounge, gym, pool and rooms that offer the crispest sheets. Just don’t pick an argument with any burly locals – Russell Crowe lives on this wharf.
Local knowledge Nick Sweeney, promoter of alt-gay party night Gay Bash (www.gay-bash.com)
The Gap ‘Not the store – the ocean cliffs at the edge of Sydney’s eastern suburbs. They also happen to be a drunken-suicide hotspot, to the point where authorities installed a phone in the middle of the headlands that links directly to a helpline. Creepy but beautiful.’ The Federation Cliff Walk is a stunning 5km coastal path that passes through a nature reserve just north of Bondi. The walk begins at Raleigh Street in Dover Heights and ends at Watsons Bay.
Miracle Asian Supermarket ‘Sydney’s city centre is full of amazing Chinese supermarkets. This one is particularly incredible: a dozen quail eggs for $1.50 (53p), aisles of delicious frozen yum cha that only need to be steamed, plus all sorts of strange breads – including one with a hot dog baked into it. Miraculous!’ Miracle Asian Supermarket, World Square, 2000 (00 612 9267 6041/ www.miraclesupermarkets.com) Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm, Thur until 9pm, Sun 11am-5pm.
Get packing Getting Around Though most of Sydney is compact and walkable, getting to Manly or Bondi requires using the efficient bus and ferry services. Yellow taxis are reasonably priced.
Getting There Virgin Atlantic flies to Sydney daily throughout the year via Hong Kong. Prices start at £741 incl taxes. Call 0870 5747 747 or book online at www.virginatlantic.com.
Money For every £1 you’ll get AU$2.25.
Climate Summers (Dec-Feb) are warm and humid with great thunderstorms, and it rains more days than not in January.
If you are planning a trip to Sydney make sure you pick up a copy of the recently launched monthly Time Out Sydney, AUS$3.95. See www.timeout sydney.com.au. The ‘Sydney Guide’ is available for £8.99 from www.timeout.com/shop
Simone Baird. Additional research by David Phelan. Photography Heloise Bergman
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Sydney guidebook
Written and researched by local journalists, writers and experts, Time Out Sydney takes you to the heart of the capital of New South Wales. It also heads beyond the urban sprawl, to the coasts, rivers and mountains of New South Wales.
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Availiable in bookshops and direct from timeout.com/shop
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