UK breaks: Wild swimming in Surrey

The Edwardian art of natural bathing is making a comeback. Daniel Start, author of ‘Wild Swimming’, picks one of his favourite swims.

The experience

On a hot summer evening, nothing is quite as exciting as finding a secret woodland bathing lake, plunging in and letting your stresses wash away. However you feel before, you’ll always feel amazing after a wild swim and you will have enjoyed an entirely new perspective on the world – from a frog’s eye view.

Frensham Great Pond

The wooded hills of Surrey, just a stone’s throw from London, offer many a tranquil pool, some frequented by the odd naked swimmer. The largest lake is Frensham Great Pond, on the A287, four miles south of Farnham. Surrounded by great pines and spring-fed from the rare heathland, the water is shallow and warmish and edged with natural sand dune beaches. There are also toilets and a café, so it’s good for families.

Built as a fishpond by the Bishop of Winchester in 1246, it was drained every five years to collect the fish and grow barley, though the last time it was emptied was in 1942 when authorities feared it would become a great moonlit landmark for German bombers. I swam at Frensham on a languid, sticky day, with dark storm clouds stacking up above the downs. It felt like a rite of passage as I slipped through the bulrushes and entered the mauve waters. The first heavy rain drops began to fall, sending a kaleidoscope of concentric circles across the glassy surface. But gliding silently among the moorhens, minnows darting beneath me, the cool water refreshed my skin and the pond began to feel like a private oasis.

Despite the proximity of suburbia, Surrey is the most wooded county in England, and as well as being good news for the environment, it’s good for water quality. Swimming regularly outdoors builds the cardiovascular and immune systems and burns calories fast. It might feel cold for the first 30 seconds or so but you soon warm up, and the shot of natural endorphins makes the whole experience exhilarating, and quite possibly addictive.

Things to do

When you’ve dried off, continue on to the lesser-known Frensham Little Pond (reserved for fishermen, but feasible for a dip if you are discreet) then descend via a network of narrow lanes and wooded bridleways – perfect for cycling – to Tilford, a quintessential village with paddling for children under the medieval bridge.

There’s the delightful Barley Mow pub on the green for refreshment, or follow the river another three miles to Elstead Mill, with its working waterwheel gushing and sploshing beneath the bar. Another mile brings you to the fabulous great lakes of Puttenham Common, enclosed by stands of Scots pine and silver birch, perhaps the finest wild waters that Surrey has to offer.

Where to eat

The Blue Bell
On a gentle hill two miles to the west of the lake and river valley, this gastropub and free house has a superb range of real ales, including its own Blue Bell bitter. In season, pan-fried roast local pheasant with gin and juniper sauce is dark but tender, and we also enjoyed the award-winning local sausages with mash. In winter there’s a log fire, and in September, when the lake water temperature is warmest, there’s a real ale festival. Groups can even arrange a hog roast in the garden.

Batts Corner, Dockenfield, Farnham, GU10 4EX (01252 792801, www.bluebellpub.com). Main courses from £7.

Where to stay

Barford Cottage
A wild swimmer’s home from home awaits at medieval Barford Cottage, the cosy, low-beamed family home of the McKays, Scottish-born loch-dippers. They have a heated swimming pool in their garden – should you need an additional soaking. Situated at the end of a tiny lane, with views over rolling fields, it’s a 20-minute walk to Frensham’s ponds along a wooded track. They offer extremely comfortable beds and dish up fabulous, fortifying breakfasts.

Ivy House Lane, Churt, Surrey GU10 2QU (01428 712646, www.farnhamdistrict.com/barford.htm). £32.50 per person B&B.

Getting there

Nearest Station
Farnham, served by Southwest Trains, see www.southwesttrains.co.uk.

Further Information

You can find out more about wild swimming in Britain from Daniel's Start book: Wild Swimming - 150 Hidden Dips in the Rivers, Lakes and Waterfalls of Britain available for £14.95 from the Wild Swimming website www.wildswimming.co.uk.

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