Mozambique: surf & the city

A well-earned luxury holiday in Africa needn’t cut you off from reality. Tamara Gausi combines island escape with city break.

The beach: Azura, Benguerra Island

Let me tell you how I usually ‘do Africa’. After buying the cheapest possible ticket at my local backstreet travel agent (which also doubles as a cab office and/or internet café), I fly out on [enter name of no-frills airline here] to [enter African city of many thrills here] where I am met by family, family of friends or new buddies whose couches I am about to surf, and immerse myself in local life. I’ve never been on a safari, township tour or ‘Meet the Masai’ excursion.

I don’t do ‘organised Africa’ because if I wanted orderly, clean and quiet I would go to Norway.

A tropical idyll

At least that’s what I thought before visiting Mozambique. For the first time ever I twinned a by-the-seat-of-my-pants trip with four nights of pre-planned and escorted extravagance. And you know what? I rather enjoyed it. My base was Azura, a luxury eco-lodge on the southern island of Benguerra, one of five tropical idylls on the Bazaruto Archipelago. After a number of setbacks (the original Azura was destroyed by a cyclone in 2006; the rebuild was gutted by a fire), the new resort, which opened in July, has positioned itself as one of Mozambique’s most impressive luxury properties. And it’s not hard to see why: comprising 15 hand-built beachside villas, each with their own plunge pool, veranda and sala (small gazebo), Azura is located within the Bazaruto Marine National Park and its surrounding waters are teeming with flamingos, turtles and reef fish, as well as the world’s only sustainable herd of dudongs or (sea cows). Whether you want to do nothing in sandy luxury or pretend to be an eco-warrior for a couple of days, Azura has something for everyone.

Carbon neutral, guilt free

Like all guests on the island, my three travel companions and I flew in from the nearby city of Vilanculos by helicopter. Guilt is eased by the fact that Azura is Mozambique’s first carbon-neutral resort, so as we enjoyed a stunning bird’s eye view of coastline we were able to rest assured knowing that somewhere a little sapling or ten was working hard to absolve us of our travel sins.

On the island, everything – eating, drinking and socialising – centres on your luxe hut. As I wanted a quiet beach holiday with good weather, good food and good company –  all of which I found in abundance – it was perfect. But it is worth pointing out that Vilanculos is well equipped to deal with the independent traveller, too, with hotels, backpacker lodges, restaurants and bars for every budget.

Back on paradise island, however, my temporary conversion to lodging in luxury was sealed by a sunset cruise and picnic. It was the first of two boat trips during my short stay. The second, a few days later, should have been great: an island-hopping excursion with snorkelling in the nearby world-class coral reefs and lunch on the remote sands of Pansy Island. And it would have been lovely had I not been up drinking on a moonlit beach until 3am. Hangovers, choppy seas and mouthfuls of sea water swallowed while attempting to snorkel (first time, possibly last) are not a good mix.

The city: Maputo

With its golden coastline, cosmopolitan mix and great food and nightlife, Maputo is like no other African city.

It only takes an hour and a half by plane from Vilanculos, but it initially feels like a million miles away. The drive from the airport must be one of the least inspiring after Baghdad’s ‘Route Irish’. Although the Civil War ended in 1992 and Mozambique has one of Africa’s fastest growing economies, this road provides shameful evidence of the grinding poverty endured by many of its people. But as you get closer to the centre, Maputo begins to look more like the burgeoning capital it is – crumpled colonial charm and all.

Restauants, bars and a thriving artistic community

The main areas of interest in the city can be divided broadly into two parts: the Avenida de Marginal, a sort of Mozambican La Rambla, which hems Maputo’s coastline to the east of the city and is home to a good number of hotels, restaurants, bars; then there’s the baixa, or port area, Maputo’s commercial and cultural hub. My first stop was the Centro Cultural Franco-Moçambicano, situated in a prime location next to the aged splendour of Jardim Tunduru (Maputo’s botanical gardens), across the road from the towering white façade of the Cathedral of Nossa Senhora da Conceicao and just round the corner from the statue of independence leader Samora Machel. The centre, with its art exhibitions, bar, restaurant and garden seating, is a lively meeting place for Maputo’s thriving artistic community.

After a quick drink with Amanico, a Mozambican journalist and borderline caffeine addict, I headed towards the Mercado Municipal or Central Market to gawp at the exotic fresh fish, vegetables and spices on display. You can also buy souvenirs here: everything from genuine African art to the kind of batiks and curios that are probably manufactured in China. Woven bags, jewellery and colourful capulana cloth are also for sale outside the Hotel Avenida on Avenida Julius Nyerere: be prepared to haggle: the Avenida is five star, and so are the asking prices.

Legendary nightlife

Next, I sought out Maputo’s beautiful railway station. Designed by Gustav Eiffel, it barely functions but is a stunning piece of early twentieth-century architecture with its long platforms and wrought-iron lattice work. At the weekends, the station hosts one of Maputo’s hippest clubs, Ka Mfumo Jazz Café. The nightlife in Maputo is legendary. You can catch live music – from marrabenta to jazz and hip hop – seven nights a week. Africa Bar and Coconuts Live are always popular but I checked out two newer spots, Xima and buzzy Rua d’Arte, a sort of African Shoreditch, which throngs with trendy Afropolitans from Thursday to Sunday.

All that walking and dancing builds up an appetite. Luckily, the Feria Popular is on hand to help. It’s a rather weathered-looking fairground, but contains some of the best places to sample Mozambique’s exquisite cuisine. I went to O Coqueiro, a simple restaurant where the matapa – cassava leaves cooked with peanut sauce, prawns and rice – was an unforgettable treat.

Time evaporated in Maputo, and I soon found myself homeward bound, reflecting on both stages of my trip: so what works best, pampered retreat or rough-edged city break? If you can afford it, both: you’re not going to get to know a country in a luxurious beach resort but, then again, a beachside massage always comes in handy after lugging around those heavy bags.

Fast facts

Getting there

South African Airways flies direct from Heathrow to Johannesburg daily. Saver returns from £751.20, including taxes (www.flysaa.com). Federal Air (previously known as Pelican Air) flies from Johannesburg to Vilanculos daily, returns from around £230 (www.fedair.com). Mozambique Airlines (LAM) flies between Vilanculos and Maputo three times a week, returns from £280 (www.lam.co.mz).

Where to stay

For a little slice of heaven on earth treat yourself to a stay at Azura. Prices start from £339 per person per night for full board and various extras, and £2,995 for five nights’ full board (including flights and helicopter transfer) with To Escape To Travel (7060 6747/www.toescapeto.com).

Maputo has a good selection of accommodation in all price ranges but the rather avant-garde circular design of the Girassol Bahia Hotel makes it one of Maputo’s hippest.

Azura (Benguerra Island), www.azura-retreats.com.
Girassol Bahia Hotel, Av Patrice Lumumba 737/739, Maputo.

What to see

Mozambique’s longest-standing artists’ collective is situated in an old colonial villa on Rua da Argelia. Best known for spearheading the ‘Arms into Art’ project – which transformed civil war-era weaponry into works of art – it regularly stages exhibitions both at home and abroad.

Associação Núcleo de Arte, 194 Rua da Argélia, Maputo.

Where to eat

Azura’s signature restaurant serves freshly caught seafood as well as seven-course taster menus devised by former Fat Duck chef Edmund Viljoen. Maputo has a good selection of restaurants, but if you want to try some Mozambican/Brazilian fusion fare check out the smart modern dining room at Rodízio Real on Av Julius Nyerere, Maputo.

Gekho Deck, at Azura on Benguerra Island.

Where to drink

Dock’s is a late-night waterside bar on Avenida de Marginal which is popular with locals and expats alike. The Mozambican drink of choice is 2M beer (pronounced ‘dois em’) – don’t even think about ordering anything else.

Dock’s, Av Marginal, Maputo (+258 21 493 204).

Tours

For details of the Maputo Express tourist train which makes 15 stops around the city see www.mozambiquetravelservice.com. You can hire a laranjinha (little orange taxi) for sightseeing purposes via Laranjinhas Turismo e Taxis: +258 824 100 001.