Westwood, yo!

There's a pocket of calm in the mania of Los Angeles.

Dinner and a movie. The romantic institution that has aided unimaginative Americans and their paramours for decades. It is as much a part of the nation’s culture as apple pie, the right to bear arms and a staggering commitment to obesity. Nowhere is the tradition of dinner and a movie better offered than in Westwood – a compact, pedestrian friendly corner of America’s film factory, Los Angeles.

First, the movies. Westwood (known variously as ‘The North Village’ if you’re talking to resident family-of-fours, or ‘The Dub-Dub’ if you eavesdrop on local students) is home to some of the best cinemas in the city, especially the Majestic Crest, a decidedly old-school theatre where movies are preceded by dramatically drawn curtains and a rousing trumpet fanfare, and the Mann Village, a central landmark in the area, with its brightly lit spire and veteran status as the site of most major film premieres since 1931. It still hosts red carpet launches today (making a decidedly more pleasant spot than our own Leicester Square) and visitors are advised to check the Seeing Stars website (www.seeing-stars.com/calendar) for details of upcoming film openings. A-listers are a certainty, if that’s your thing.

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Movies play a further role in the character of Westwood, in that many are filmed against the setting of the town and the neighbouring university, UCLA. A stroll around the latter, free-to-roam campus reveals an institution of great architectural beauty and the recognisable backdrop to a host of movies, music videos and TV shows. ‘Buffy the Vampire Slayer’ fan(atic)s prowl the campus to this day.

On the subject of bite-hunting, Westwood is a haven of independent eateries in a city otherwise dominated by chains. A farmers’ market is held on Weyburn Avenue every Thursday, with plenty of freebies for those who like to nibble. Down the road, Damon & Pythias offers interesting Mediterranean fare that’s been pushed through the American mangle (read: plenty of sour cream over baked potatoes, enormous salads, terrifyingly friendly service) and year-round outdoor dining, courtesy of a happy Californian climate and some well-placed gas heaters. Just round the corner, meriting a mention with its fascinating palace-like interior and decidedly foolish name, is Eurochow, a suit-and-tie spot sporting a very decent menu of – yep – European chow. For snacks, pizza at Enzo’s and submarine rolls at Sepi’s are worthy munches. Be sure to save space for dessert, though – Diddy Riese is a bona fide local treasure. New York has its skyscrapers, San Francisco its trams; Westwood has chocolate chip cookies from Diddy Riese. It’s only a slight exaggeration to describe these sweet and soft discs as manna from heaven. They’re a marvel at only 33¢ (that’s about 20p) each.

The few bars that form Westwood’s limited drinking scene ring in at opposite ends of the price spectrum – Maloney’s and Westwood Brewing Co are bustling student hangouts, while the bar at the W hotel is an ultra-slick joint for fat wallets – but a short drive opens up a vista of interesting establishments. Try Lucky Strike Lanes in West Hollywood for a trendy hybrid of bowling and booze, or Renee’s in Santa Monica for alfresco drinking in an intimate paved courtyard.

The aforementioned W is the glittering glory-hog of Westwood’s many hotels: an enormous building shaped like the letter itself and patronised by most of the film industry’s tanned and toned over the years. For those on a budget, though, UCLA-affiliated Hilgard House is open to all visitors at a modest price; the nearby Hotel Claremont is cheaper and offers less attractive but perfectly acceptable lodgings.

Although Westwood and the university are ideal for those on foot, much of LA is practically inaccessible without wheels. Grab a hire car, and Westwood serves as an ideal base from which to venture out to the beaches, city sights and theme parks. As a stronghold of sanity in a town that is happy to embrace the brazen and the bizarre, Westwood is well worth a visit if travelling through the area. At the very least, stop by for dinner and a movie.

Where to Stay
W, 930 Hilgard Avenue (001 310 208 8765).
Hilgard House, Hilgard Avenue (001 310 208 3945).
Hotel Claremont, 10587 Wilshire Boulevard (001 310 474 3511).
For more information visit www.westwoodvillageonline.com.

Where to Eat and Drink
Majestic Crest, 1262 Westwood Boulevard (001 310 474 7866).
Mann Village, 961 Broxton Avenue (001 310 208 5576).
Damon & Pythias, 1061 Broxton Avenue (001 310 824 6375).
Eurochow, 1099 Westwood Boulevard (001 310 209 0066).
Enzo’s, 10940 Weyburn Avenue (001 310 208 3696).
Sepi’s, 10968 Le Conte Avenue (001 310 208 7171).
Diddy Riese, 926 Broxton Avenue (001 310 208 0448).
Maloney’s, 1000 Gayley Avenue (001 310 208 1942).
Westwood Brewing Co, 1097 Glendon Avenue (001 310 209 2739).
Lucky Strike Lanes, corner of Hollywood Boulevard and Highland Avenue (001 323 467 7776).
Renee’s, 522 Wilshire Boulevard (001 310 451 9341).

Getting there
British Airways has return fares from Heathrow to Los Angeles from £280.

Tom Lamont
Time Out London Issue 1797: January 26-February 2 2005

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