Ljubljana

The Slovenian capital has all the ingredients for a magical jaunt - medieval, baroque and art nouveau architecture; café-lined cobbled avenues - and best of all, it feels like your secret.

With all the fairytale charm of other Eastern European favourites, minus the stag parties, its addition to the low-cost airline map makes it the perfect city break.

Sightseeing
Amble through the Old Town and you’ll soon feel you know the city like the back of your hand. Stroll across the Shoemaker Bridge, or hire a bike via the tourist office on Krekov trg and take a two-wheeled tour. Tivoli Gardens is perfect for perambulating in the fresh air, but skip the complex – it’s way too ’70s – and find the tiny ice rink in the main square, Presernov Trg, to glide for gratis. A chilly afternoon could be spent at couple-friendly sauna club Breza (3 Lepodvorska; 231 97 13); though be prepared to swim and steam nude.

Restaurants

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The best of Austrian and Italian cuisine has found its way into this neighbouring kitchen, and the outcome is reason enough to visit. The stylish rustic surrounds of Pri Vitezu (18–20 Breg; 426 60 58) can’t be bettered for a sophisticated dîner à deux of Slovenian specialities and fresh seafood. � pajza (28 Gornji trg; 425 30 94) is another contemporary take on tradition that will have you toasting Slovenia’s culinary heritage. The three-floored gostilna (inn) of Sokol (18 Ciril-Metodov; 439 68 55) smacks of Disney-does-Slovenia, but the wide range of food served is authentic, portions generous and value unbeatable.

Bars & cafés
Sip delicious local wines in oversized glasses at £2 a pop in candlelit, bottle-lined Movia Vinnoteka (2 Mestni trg; 425 54 48). It’s timeless but for the cheesy ’80s soundtrack, which seems to be favoured everywhere in Slovenia.
There is no shortage of cute cafés, especially on Stari trg. Tea lovers will adore Cajna Husa (425 52 13) and the adjoining shop selling its aromatic leaves. Locals are known to appreciate some me-time over a quiet cuppa, and favour the faux-baroque Italian stylings of Julija (425 64 63). The name translates as Juliet, so it’s appropriate that the red glow over the road comes from cool cocktail stop Café Romeo (no phone), where the mixology magic costs from only a few euros. Chocaholics should head to Slašcicarna Pri Vodnjaku, where you can share a lip-smacking fondue for around £2.50.

Shopping
A retail hot spot Ljubljana isn’t, though the markets boast myriad wooden kitchen accoutrements. Antiques shops are worth a snoop around, and if you’re curious about homegrown designers, poke your nose into the quirky boutiques along Gornji trg. Before midday on Saturday, Central Market is full of tasty bargains, and foodies will have fun filling a basket with local specialities such as honey, nuts, salamis and cakes. On Sunday mornings, scour the Flea Market for interesting curios along riverside Cankarjevo nabrežje.

Accommodation
To lovers of chic destination retreats, Ljubljana is still in its infancy. The first designer hotel opened last December on a patch of green belt just outside the city, but Hotel Mons (55 Pot za Brdom; 470 27 21/www.hotel.mons.si) smacks more of business than boutique. Doubles cost from €150. The place that’s made the most waves is Hostel Celica (8 Metelkova; 430 18 90; www.souhostel.si). Each cell of this former prison has been given a new lease of leisure life by a different architect, all to the same brief: work wonders with little space. The result is cheery, and if the prospect of sharing a not-so-clean toilet at the end of the hall with backpackers doesn’t deter you, it’s great value. Doubles cost from £14.50 a person a night. In a city short on distinguished lodgings, luxe comes at the cost of cool. Grand Hotel Union Executive (1 Miklosiceva cesta; 308 12 70) is corporate, and while the spacious rooms and indoor pool are applaudable, the few original art deco features are eclipsed by wall-to-wall headache carpet and soulless furnishings.

Getting there
EasyJet (0905 821 0905/www.easyjet.com) flies daily from Stansted to Ljubljana, from £40.98 return including taxes.

Getting around
Taxis are friendly and should take you from airport to city centre for no more than €35; in town they’re readily available and cheap. Hourly airport buses cost less than €3 and connect to a user-friendly network. Trains from the central station are efficient and inexpensive should you want to explore. If you choose to rent a car, roads everywhere are easy to navigate.

Further information
The code for Slovenia is 386; for Ljubljana dial 1. For more info on Slovenia visit www.slovenia-tourism.si or call the Slovenian Tourist office on 0870 225 5305. In July and August, the capital comes alive with street performers and events for the Ljubljana Festival (www.festival-lj.si).

Juliet Kinsman
Time Out London Issue 1800: February 16-23 2005

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