The Shetland Islands

Britain‘s northernmost reaches are as much of a contrast to city living as you could wish for – and surprisingly accessible.

As soon as the tiny-propellered plane swoops down into Sumburgh airport you know you’ve arrived at a place light years removed from the metropolitan excesses of British urban living. The Shetland Islands have throughout their history been ignored and dismissed as gale-blown backwaters of interest only to fishermen and oil workers. The truth is that the isles are amazingly easy to reach from London and hold myriad delights for visitors, from the colonies of seals to the ramshackle charm of Britain’s most northerly brewery.

Sightseeing

Article continues

The busy little port town of Lerwick is the hub of the Shetland Islands’ thriving traditional music scene. The upstairs bar at The Lounge on Mounthooly Street hosts live music on Friday and Saturday nights when you’re likely to catch local musicians holding convivial instrumental sessions involving fiddles and accordions.
Heading out of town along the harbour, it’s common to see dozens of seals basking on the rocks or dipping in and out of the freezing seawater. Further inland is the site of Jarlshof, which is rich in Viking history. The impressive ruins date from the Stone Age onwards and include a large variety of Viking longhouses.
Taking a ferry to the second most northerly island of Yell will bring you to the eerie remains of the Windhouse. The ghost house has been abandoned since the 1920s and the truly hardy can brave a night in the simple self-catering cottage located at the bottom of the path leading up to the house.
The most northerly island of Unst marks the very top of the United Kingdom; from here there’s nothing else until you reach the North Pole. The sense of remoteness as you wander along the sandy beaches and treeless grassland is spectacular, as are the views over the lighthouse.
Shetland Islands Tourism (01595 693434).
Guided tours organised by Roy Greenwald (www.shetlandtours.co.uk/01595 692080).

Eating & drinking
Baroc is an impressively stylish bar situated on the harbour in Lerwick where you can enjoy delicious pasta dishes and burgers with a decent selection of continental beers. A short ferry hop to the tiny island of Bressay will take you directly to the Maryfield, which specialises in prawns, as many as possible sourced locally, according to the owner. Served in a white crab sauce (excellent value at £12.50), they’re fantastic.
For incredible locally brewed ales, the only place to head is the Valhalla brewery, situated in the garage of Unst local Sonny Priests. Started as a hobby to make income after staff cutbacks at the local RAF base, Priests’ five varieties of ale are available in many of the pubs throughout the island and can be bought directly from him.
He’ll even show you round thebrewery on a quiet day.
Maryfield Hotel, Bressay Island (01595 820207).
Valhalla Brewery, Baltasound, Unst (01957 711658/ www.valhallabrewery.co.uk).

Where to stay
The Breiview B&B is a good-value option, commanding fantastic views of the coastline. For more salubrious accommodation, try the Queens Hotel which offers sizeable bedrooms and a lovely view of the harbour. The sixteenth-century Buness House offers sunny rooms and a well-stocked library, and can arrange trout fishing on the island.
Breiview Guest House, 43 Kantersted Rd, Lerwick ZE1 ORJ (01595 695996/ www.breiviewguesthouse.co.uk).
Doubles £25-£35 per person.
Queens Hotel, 24 Commercial St, Lerwick ZE1 OAB (01595 692826/ www.kgqhotels.co.uk).
Doubles from £92.50.
Buness House, Baltasound, Unst ZE2 9DS (01957 711315/ www.users.zetnet.co.uk/buness-house).
Doubles from £45.50 per person.

Getting there
Scot Rail runs sleeper trains from Euston to Inverness, which typically leave London at 9.15pm to arrive in Inverness at 8am the next morning. A bargain twin berth can cost as little as £19 each way. Check www.firstscotrail.co.uk for details.
From Inverness you can fly on Logan Air to Sumburgh airport on the Shetlands. There are daily flights via the Orkney Islands and prices are around £130. For details visit www.loganair.co.uk.

Rob Crossan
Time Out London Issue 1808: April 13-20 2005

Weekend Breaks from London Time Out Weekend Breaks picks some great places to get away from it all: forty-five different destinations, all within two hours by road or rail from London. Now out of stock. [Buy Now ] Availiable in bookshops and direct from timeout.com/shop