South Tyrol

Nestling below the Dolomite mountains, amid castles, lakes and vineyards, Italy‘s most northerly province remains an unspoilt gem.

An hour north of Verona and the landscape suddenly changes: the air becomes crisp, the light stark and the vibe turns decidedly alpine. Surrounded by snow-capped mountains, pine trees, Heidi-style chalets and fairytale castles, it’s hard to remember you are in Italy. It can be confusing: shopkeepers speak in Italian, vineyard owners in German and local farmers in the ancient language of the region, Ladinian. Here you can get a quality penne arrabiata or top-class sauerkraut in the same restaurant. But until now, this fascinating, culturally diverse and historically rich region, which Austria handed over to Italy after WWI, is practically unvisited by British tourists. And naturally that’s part of its allure.

What to do
Thanks to over 20,000 kilometres of well-marked trails winding through the woodlands, the South Tyrol is a popular destination for walkers and cyclists. Those in search of culture can get their fix with all the medieval castles, monasteries and museums throughout the region. And lazy arses who like to do little more than eat and drink on holiday can take a glorious wine-tasting trip from castle to monastery to wine cellar, as it also happens to be one of Europe’s most important wine regions.

Where to go

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Bolzano, the region’s capital, is an attractive medieval town with arcaded streets and a stunning square, Piazza delle Erbe, shrouded by the dramatic Dolomites. Its central location makes it a good place to base yourself. Brixen is a smaller, more Germanic town to the east packed with historical interest, including the unmissable cathedral and museum. Merano is a stunning spa town just north of Bolzano surrounded by mountains and castles that’s worthy of a day trip.

Eating & drinking
Warm days, cold nights and high altitude make for white wines with intense, fragrant aromas, bursting with flavour. Although it accounts for just a tiny proportion of Italy’s total wine, South Tyrol wines are among the country’s most prestigious, with over 20 different grapes from Pinot Blanc to Merlot grown here. Its most famous native white wine variety, Gewürztraminer, produces elegant, rose-scented wines. If you are on the wine-tasting trail, a good place to start is at Castel Ringberg, overlooking a lake and vineyards, where you’ll be able to sample Elena Walsh’s crisp and diverse line-up of wines. Manincor is a state-of-the-art modern winery built beneath a thirteenth-century château. If you pre-book, you’ll be offered a tour. Make sure you try one of the excellent wines, such as the deliciously quaffable Réserve del Conte 2003 or the fine Mason di Mason Pinot Noir. Local specialities include the mouthwatering breads, hard cheese and cured ham, or speck as it’s more commonly known, that can be picked up from the daily market in the centre of Bolzano.
Castel Ringberg, San Giuseppe al Lago 1 (00 39 0471 960 010/ www.castel-ringberg.com).
Manincor, S Giuseppe al Lago 4 (00 39 0471 960230/www.manincor.it).

Sightseeing
You can’t go to Bolzano without taking a trip to see its oldest resident, Otzi, the famous ice man discovered by German hikers in 1991, who dates back to the Copper Age. Preserved in a glass chamber in the South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology, he’s a spooky sight. There are many castles and monasteries throughout the region, but two of the most important and picturesque are the Muri-Gries Monastery, which produces a fine red wine, and the Pircher Monastery, which makes good quality grappas and brandies.
South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology, Via Museum 43 (www.iceman.it).
Muri-Gries Monastery, Grieser Platz 21 (00 39 471 28 22 87/ www.muri-gries.com).
Pircher Monastery, Via Bolzano 17 (00 39 0473 561188/www.pircher.it).

Going out
Bolzano offers a good mix of bars and a handful of clubs for those who fancy hitting the dance floor after a hard day trekking or guzzling wine. Friday night is the most lively. Start at the stylish, modern restaurant-cocktail bar Exil for dinner and drinks before ending up at Parkhotel Laurin’s slinky cocktail bar for its legendary jazz night. Alternatively, sitting in the Pillhof with its stunning views of the Dolomites, is a great way to while away a sunny afternoon.
Exil, Piazzo Del Grasso (00 39 0471 971814).
Parkhotel Laurin, Via Laurin 4 (00 39 0471 311 000/www.laurin.it).
Pillhof,Via Bolzano 48 (00 39 0471 633 100/www.pillhof.com).

Shopping
Aside from the plethora of good wines, Bolzano offers other consumer delights such as quality Italian shoes and designer labels (including Dolce & Gabbana, Prada and Missoni) , which can be picked up from one of the many boutiques around town. An excellent lingerie shop is Le Zenis, which had every knicker and bra shape and colour you could hope for at rock-bottom prices. Foodies can stock up on tasty local cheeses and sausages at the Seinstock delicatessen, while those with a keen eye for design can pick up stylish Italian ceramics at Schouhuber-Franchi where you can buy hip Italian designer homewares at excellent prices.
Le Zenis, Via Potici 29 (00 39 0471 326 147).
Seinstock, Via Potici 227.
Schouhuber-Franchi, Laubengarne, Via dei Portici 56.

Where to stay
Hotel Laurin is an elegant four-star hotel situated in the centre of Bolzano with an exquisite colonial garden and spacious rooms with luxurious marble bathrooms. Hotel Greif is a new and discreet boutique hotel – each room has a different theme – while for those on a budget, Gasser is a rural, family-run B&B, just three kilometres from the centre of Bolzano.
Hotel Laurin, Via Laurin 4 (00 39 0471 311 000/www.laurin.it). Doubles from €165 incl breakfast.
Hotel Greif, Piazza Walther (00 39 0471 318 000/www.greif.it). Doubles from €165.
Gasser, Leopoldstrasse 2a (00 39 04 71 918 260). Doubles from €35 per person.

When to go
For wine tasting and outdoor activities, the South Tyrol region is best visited from April to late autumn, although it’s worth remembering that it can get hot in midsummer, with temperatures often exceeding 35°C.

Getting there
British Airways flights from Gatwick to Verona cost from £78.30 return including taxes. This is a 28-day Apex fare (www.ba.com). Bolzano is one hour and 45 minutes from Verona by train (www.trenitalia.it).
For further information about the region, visit www.suedtirol.info

Maggie Davis
Time Out London Issue 1813: May 18-25 2005

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