Brighton Beautiful

With London-on-sea only an hour away, what are you waiting for? Read our guide to the very best sights, hotels, clubs, restaurants and bars in the south's most happening coastal destination.

The Town

Brighton has been a fashionable seaside resort since the mid-eighteenth century when Dr Richard Russell’s championing of the health-giving properties of the sea air and water prompted the wealthy to flock to this elegant town. It later gained its more gritty reputation as a dirty-weekend destination with the arrival of the lusty Prince Regent (who later became George IV). A philanderer from the age of 17, the young George built his pleasure palace, the Royal Pavilion, here in the early nineteenth century.
Today Brighton continues to offer a breath of fresh air, both with its invigorating salty breeze and its liberal attitude – indeed, as early as 1988 the Sun newspaper declared it the gay capital of Europe. It has attracted so many visitors and newly relocated residents from the capital that its Victorian nickname of ‘London by the sea’ is still appropriate today.

North Laine and the Lanes
The network of tiny streets that are collectively known as ‘the lanes’, are in fact two separate areas: North Laine and the Lanes.
As you exit the train station, take an immediate left down the steep slope of Trafalgar Street – at number 103 is one of Brighton’s best watering holes, the Great Eastern (01273 685681), a trad pub with worn wooden-barrel tables, shelves of books and a laidback vibe. Also on Trafalgar Street, stop at the top of Sydney Street, where the North Laine begins.
Independent cafés and shops crowd this bohemian stretch of Brighton. Breakfast is a main event. Our favourite slap-up hotspots include Café Motu (6 Trafalgar St, 01273 709655) – perfect for a pre-work rendezvous as it’s less busy than at weekends – the earthy yet chic Café Nia (see below) and the Turkish Akdeniz (19 Kensington Gardens, 01273 679124) whose Mediterranean breakfast features grilled halloumi, feta and boiled eggs. Save the Pulp Kitchen (31 Bond St, 01273 735640) for later in the day. Its dairy-free smoothies and nutritious wraps, salads and soups are the ultimate afternoon pep-up.
At the end of Bond Street (and the end of the North Laine) cross over North Street to enter the Lanes. Here things get a little more high street and the eating and drinking upgrades from cafés to bars and restaurants. Serving generous portions of homemade global dishes, the Hop Poles pub
(13 Middle St, 01273 710444) never fails to satisfy both appetites and wallets.

The Seafront
At the south end of the Lanes is Brighton’s famous seafront with its promenade and pebble beach. On a hazy bank holiday weekend, it can feel like the whole world has descended upon this quintessentially English piece of paradise. Here, famous clubs such as Beach (171-181 King’s Road Arches, 01273 722272) and, further towards the Marina, Concorde2 (Madeira Drive, 01273 697888/ www.concorde2.co.uk), sit side by side with fishmongers, stalls selling buckets and spades, fish and chip shops, and pubs and bars with beachfront seating. The stalwart Fortune of War (157 King’s Road Arches, 01273 205065) serves a lovely pint.
Walking west from the Palace Pier, along the seafront, past the skeletal remains of the West Pier, you’ll notice the seafront houses changing colour from bright white to soft yellow. The point at which this happens marks your entrance to Hove, Brighton’s posh counterpart. Once separate towns, the two joined to become the city of Brighton & Hove in 2000. Here the beaches are quieter, the streets wider and flats in the grand seafront squares, such as Brunswick Square, are much sought after.

Kemptown
East of the Lanes is Kemptown, the hub of Brighton’s thriving gay and lesbian community (a more relaxed scene is emerging in Hove). ‘For sale’ and ‘to let’ signs in rainbow colours, a beauty salon called the The Pink Pamper (1 St James St, 01273 608060/ www.thepinkpamper.com) and men-at-work outfits are all indications of the area’s camp credentials.
St James Street is the main thoroughfare, which eventually leads to the celebrity abode of Kemp Town Village – among others, Cate Blanchett and Jimmy Somerville live here.
On St James Street call in for organic and free-range groceries and deli delights at Bona Foodie (21 St James St, 01273 698007).
Kemptown also boasts some of the liveliest pubs and bars in town. The St James Tavern (16 Madeira Pl, 01273 626696) is a classic, attracting a friendly, mixed crowd from morning until evening.

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Brighton Museum & Art Gallery
Situated next to the Dome Theatre, the Brighton Museum & Art Gallery (Royal Pavilion Gardens, 01273 290900/www.virtualmuseum.info) is looking quite glorious after its millennium refurbishment. The twentieth-century Art & Design room contains Salvador Dalí’s sofa inspired by Mae West’s lips. Another permanent exhibition is dedicated to Brighton’s history and has superb visual and aural displays on everything from mods and rockers to the gay and lesbian community.

The Royal Pavilion
Always conscious of any developing trends, the Prince Regent decided in 1815 to upgrade his neoclassical villa to a Taj Majal-style construction with the assistance of the architect John Nash. The wonderfully extravagant Oriental interiors of the Royal Pavilion (Royal Pavilion Gardens, 01273 292820/www.royalpavilion.org.uk) were infamously the scene of much insalubrious activity.
And you’d be foolish not to indulge in a guided tour of this interior design fantasy.

Eating & drinking

Café Paradiso
The restaurant of the stylish Hotel Seattle looks out through vast windows on to the Brighton Marina. The marina, whose boats bring in the catch that features heavily on the menu, is as integral to this slick operation as the swift staff and quirky decor. Children have their own mini gourmet menu.
Café Paradiso, Hotel Seattle, Brighton Marina, BN2 5WA (01273 679799/ www.aliashotels.com). Open Mon-Fri 7-10am, 12noon-3pm, 6.30-10.30pm; Sat, Sun 8-10.30am, 12.30-3.30pm, 7-10.30pm.

Due South
The arrival of Due South at last addresses the dearth of decent dining spots on Brighton’s seafront. Five prime tables face a half-moon window overlooking the sea and busy boardwalk below. Menu ingredients are locally and organically sourced: from the steamed, buttered Midhurst asparagus to the Stonegate sheep’s cheese soufflé.
Due South, 139 King’s Rd Arches, Brighton, BN1 2NF (01273 821218/ www.duesouth.co.uk). Open daily 12noon-4pm, 6-10pm.

Gingerman
Simplicity itself, Ben McKellar’s Gingerman offers fine continental – mainly French – cuisine at accessible prices. The weekly changing lunch menu is an absolute winner. The main menu, available for lunch or dinner, shows style and imagination: mains include monkfish and sweet potato red curry with jasmine rice. Coffee is served with delicate raspberry jam cakes.
Gingerman, 21a Norfolk Sq, Brighton, BN1 2PD (01273 326688). Open Tue-Sat noon-2pm, 7-10pm.

Krakatoa
This modest pan-Asian café by Brighton bus station is just a short stroll from the Lanes and offers the authentic taste of the Far East at affordable prices. Only one of the main courses breaks the £10 barrier, and that – a sumptuous goong samui of Thai tiger prawns and Asian salad – is worth every penny.
Krakatoa, 7 Pool Valley, Brighton, BN1 1NJ (01273 719009). Open 5-11pm Mon, 12noon-11pm Tue-Sun.

Momma Cherri’s Soul Food Shack
Authentic, filling and fun, eating out at Momma Cherri’s is everything that mid-range dining should be. Ten tables are served by smooth waiting staff to a soundtrack of soul, R&B and, on Sundays, gospel. Try plates of jambalaya heavy enough to sink a paddle steamer. Three courses will set you back a mere £20 and the children’s menu is something to be celebrated. Booking is advised at weekends, especially since the Shack was featured on ‘Gordon Ramsay’s Kitchen Nightmares’.
Momma Cherri’s Soul Food Shack, 11 Little St, Brighton, BN1 1HT (01273 774545/www.mommacherri.co.uk). 5-11pm Tue-Thur, 5pm-midnight Fri, noon-midnight Sat, 11am-5pm Sun.

Nia Café
By day a busy pit stop offering all-day breakfasts (try the muesli with walnuts and dried apricots accompanied by a jasmine and wild honey infusion); after dark the Nia dims the industrial lights hanging over its dozen wooden tables and becomes a fully fledged restaurant. The à la carte menu changes fortnightly, but always features vegetarian, fish and lamb options.
Nia Café, 87-88 Trafalgar St, Brighton, BN1 4EB (01273 671371). 9am-10pm Mon-Sat, until 6pm Sun.

Terre à Terre
Friendly, child-welcoming and with homely jars of tangy oils and preserves on sale out front, Terre à Terre puts on a fine spread of inventive vegetarian dishes. Four-line menu descriptions that end with phrases such as ‘dusted with caraway seed and finished with wheat berry emulsion and celeriac straw’ make for both enticing reading and eating. Organic wines and a summer terrace are added attractions.
Terre à Terre, 71 East St, Brighton, BN1 1HQ (01273 729051/www.terreaterre.co.uk). 6-10.30pm Tue, noon-3pm , 6-10.30pm Wed-Fri, noon-11pm Sat, noon-10pm Sun.

Nightlife
Brighton’s nightlife accommodates all tastes from the casual drinker to the serious clubber. What Glastonbury is to music festivals, Brighton is to clubbing. Avoid West Street, the area favoured by the hen and stag-do contingent, especially at chucking-out time when all the horrors of British binge-drinking are displayed in their full glory. Below is our pick of the best clubs:

Funky Buddha
Hip decor under the arches and an eclectic mix of music such as R&B, house, pop and indie.
Funky Buddha, 169 King’s Rd, Brighton, BN1 1NB (01273 725541/www.funkybuddhabrighton.co.uk).

Honey Club
The music policy covers pretty much all styles at this lively club, with various week nights hosting old school, heavy metal and disco house. The existence of a student night on a Wednesday reflects the young crowd.
Honey Club, 214 King’s Rd, Brighton, BN 1NB (www.honeyclub.co.uk/ 01273 202807).

Ocean Rooms
Big, beautiful club for those serious about their music. Dance, minimal house, techno and drum ’n’ bass all feature, with regular guest DJs including Andrew Weatherall and Dillinja.
Ocean Rooms, 1 Morley St, Brighton, BN2 1EL (01273 699069/www.oceanrooms.co.uk).

Revenge
Huge gay club spread over two floors; even though it’s pumping with a confection of different tunes, there’s space to stand and chat.
Revenge, 32 Old Steine, Brighton, BN1 1EL (01273 606064/ www.revenge.co.uk).

Union
Set in the fishermen’s arches down on the beach, newly opened Union is a top place to catch Brighton’s seaside vibe. Groove Armada, Fred Deakin and Norman Jay are all expected to play over the summer.
Union, 189 King’s Rd, Brighton, BN1 1NB (01273 202407).

Shopping

Choccywoccydoodah
With the burgeoning success of its exquisite chocolate creations, Choccywoccydoodah has moved from its quiet location on Middle Street to the bustle of Duke Street round the corner. Its designer cakes fit in with the upmarket hipster vibe of the locale, replete with fashionable boutiques.
Choccywoccydoodah, 24 Duke St, Brighton, BN1 1AG (01273 329462/ www.choccywoccydoodah.com). 10am-6pm Mon-Sat, 11am-5pm Sun.

Cissy Mo
Overflowing with pink kitsch, Cissy Mo is a neon beacon among North Laine’s funky gift shops. Instead of the normal stick of Brighton rock, take home an ‘ickle’ picnic set, some fuchsia fairy lights or a Hello Kitty lunchbox.
Cissy Mo, 38 Sydney St, Brighton, BN1 4EP (01273 607777). 10am-6pm Mon-Sat, 11.30am-5pm Sun.

Jell-o
A mix of cool street labels including Maharishi, Mandarina Duck and Hysteric Glamour are served up in this hip urban shop for guys and girls. There’s also a good selection of lingerie and accessories from local designers.
Jell-o, 16 Gardner St, Brighton, BN1 1UP (01273 609363). 10am-6pm Mon-Sat, 12noon-5pm Sun.

Lavender/room
Just walking into Lavender/room makes you want to lose ten pounds. Everything about this lifestyle boutique is as light as air and as desirable as a VIP pass to seventh heaven. Silk lavender eye masks, Johnny Loves Rosie accessories and delicate Coco Ribbon butterflies sit delicately on the shelves alongside rails of chiffon and cashmere in pastel hues.
Lavender/room, 16 Bond St, Brighton, BN1 1RD (01273 220380/ www.lavender-room.co.uk). 10am-6pm Mon-Sat, 12noon-5pm Sun.

LuLu Rose
Shop manager Jane Kelly is precious about her fairytale hoard of belts, bags, shoes, hats and scarves: "We commission our pieces from closely guarded sources in Europe and Asia." The exclusivity and carefulness don’t stop once you’ve purchased one of LuLu Rose’s original items either. With your receipt comes an A6 page of care advice. For handbags it reads: ‘Avoid overloading; avoid contact with alcohol (perfumes, solutions) and greases (for example, foundation and make-up).’ What exactly is a girl to use her handbag for, then?
LuLu Rose, 27 Kensington Gardens, Brighton, BN1 4AL (01273 697 944). 10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6.30pm Sat, 11am-5.30pm Sun.

The One 40 Five Store
A trusty staple of the Brighton street scene, The One 40 Five Store is the place to buy your baggy jeans, hoodies and graffiti T-shirts. Guys hog the rails upstairs with labels such as Stüssy and Silas, while girls get the basement neatly lined with skirts, vests and slouchy shorts by the likes of Lady Soul, Perkas and MHI .
The One 40 Five Store, 27 Sydney St, Brighton, BN1 4EP (01273 571145/ www.one40fivestore.com). 10am-6pm Mon-Sat, 12noon-5pm Sun.

Snoopers Paradise
This town loves retro – and its residents love to spend hours browsing Snoopers Paradise, a jumble of secondhand, retro and vintage stalls housed under one big roof in the middle of the North Laine. You can pick up anything here, from a Victorian capelet to an art deco chandelier to old postcards of Brighton.
Snoopers Paradise, Kensington Garden, Brighton, BN1 4AL (01273 602558). 9.30am-5.30pm Mon-Sat, 11am-4pm Sun.

Sunday Market
If you plan on moving to Brighton, you’ll soon come to learn the merits of the city’s fabulous Sunday Market. Held just behind the railway station, huge transporter-vanloads of antique, retro and secondhand furniture spill on to the tarmac next to rickety stalls piled high with jumble-sale clothing.
Sunday Market, Brighton station car park. 9am-2pm Sun.

Places to stay

Granville Hotel
Billing itself as Brighton’s original boutique hotel, the Granville now has a host of competitors. Still it remains one of the best with spacious rooms, sea views and an inviting atmosphere.
If you’re feeling extravagant, opt for a room with a Jacuzzi or the art deco Noël Coward-themed room.
Granville Hotel, 124 King’s Rd, Brighton, BN1 2FY (01273 326302/ www.granvillehotel.co.uk). Double from £55.

The Twenty-One
Friendly, well-priced and quirky – here you’ll find themed rooms including the large Victorian one with an appealing four-poster bed. Fine sea views and an ample breakfast make this a good deal.
Hotel Twenty-One, 21 Charlotte St, Brighton, BN2 1AG (01273 686450/ www.thetwentyone.co.uk). Double from £75.

Square Hotel
Positioned in a leafy square, this nine-roomed guesthouse is one of Brighton’s newer additions. It features low-key luxe decor, minimalist lounge bar and in-house treatments ranging from Indian head massages to reflexology.
Square Hotel, 4 New Steine, Brighton, BN2 1PB (01273 691777/www.squarebrighton.com). Double from £140.

Property

Just 50 minutes by fast train from Victoria, Brighton is practically a suburb of South London, which is why the commuter trains are packed to bursting in rush hour. Unsurprisingly, the property market has boomed over the past few years. Regency and Victorian buildings are in abundance, with original period features and sea views demanding high premiums.
The good news, however, is that if you hunt around, first-time buyers can still pick up a studio for under £100,000. For a one-bedroom flat you’re looking at an average of £140,000 (rent for a similar property is about £650 a month), while a three-bedroom family house goes for somewhere in the region of £250,000. The most expensive properties are in Hove Park, Sussex Square, Palmeira Square and Brunswick Square and Terrace. Increasingly gentrified areas such as Seven Dials and Hanover now fall in the mid- to top-price range, while Hollingdean and Five Ways are among the less glamorous options.

Want to know more about Brighton - which entrepreneurs are setting the Sussex coast alight? Which celebs, er, other than Chris Eubank, are Brightonians? Find out in Time Out London, July 27-August 3 2005.

Jessica Eveleigh
Time Out London Issue 1823: July 27-August 03 2005

Time Out London magazine (Issue 1823) Summer Days Out. 50 great ideas for quick and easy getaways, including a four-page guide to Brighton. Plus Lars von Trier, Edinburgh Festival, Emmanuel Jal, Sporty Summer and Womad [Buy Now ] Availiable in bookshops and direct from timeout.com/shop