Granada

Lively nightlife, atmospheric streets, first-rate tapas and a wildly romantic hilltop palace make Granada a vibrant summer destination.

Plenty of people have heard of the twelfth-century Alhambra citadel; fewer are familiar with the Andalusian city that its inhabitants – first Moorish, then Christian kings – once guarded. Though the palace itself will need a day to see, do spend another couple enjoying the other delights of this characterful city.

What to see & do
The Alhambra

Booking is strictly in advance only in order to reduce overcrowding, with visitors allotted a half-hour time slot for the complex’s centrepiece, the Palacios Nazaríes [Nasrid Palace or Royal House]. The once-vivid colours of the intricate plasterwork have faded and the halls are no longer hung with lavish textiles. So, while the architecture is stunning, you have to use your imagination to fill in the detail. A recommended companion is a copy of ‘Tales of the Alhambra’ by Washington Irving, the American historian and diplomat who ‘rediscovered’ the Alhambra in 1829.
Alhambra (00 34 915 379 178/ www.alhambratickets.com).

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Other highlights of Granada include:

the Centro de Interpretación del Sacromonte, where you can explore Gyspy cave dwellings similar to those on the hillside opposite the Alhambra; the fine late-gothic Capilla Real and the adjoining Renaissance Cathedral, which sits on the original site of Granada’s main mosque; and the outrageous baroque interiors of the Monestario de la Cartuja.
Shoppers will enjoy the Zacatín, a now more touristy version of the Grand Bazaar, and Calderería Nueva, which is packed with Moorish lamps and local ceramics. When you’ve done all that, head for Hammam Baños Arabes, where €17 gets you a full-body massage and a two-hour soak in the steam baths.
Capilla Rea, Calle Oficios 3 (00 34 958 229 239/www.capillarealgranada.com).
Centro de Interpretación del Sacromonte, Barranco de los Negros (00 34 958 215 120/ www.sacromontegranada.com).
Hammam Baños Arabes, Calle Santa Ana 16 (00 34 902 409 902/ www.hammamspain.com/granada).
Monestario de la Cartuja, Paseo de la Cartuja (00 34 958 161 932).

Where to eat & drink
Tea houses (teterías) are a civilised reminder of Granada’s Moorish past; the best is La Tetería del Bañuelo behind the eleventh-century Arab Baths.
In Granada it is customary to serve free tapas with drinks. For gourmet examples in quirky surroundings, seek out Taberna La Opipara on Campo del Principe. On a side street near here is Tragaluz, one of Andalusia’s top restaurants, dishing up extravagant salads and authentic tagines.
La Tetería del Bañuelo, Calle Bañuelo 5 (00 34 958 224 197).
Taberna La Opipara, Campo del Principe 15 (00 34 958 227 083).
Tragaluz, Calle Nevot 26 (00 34 958 222 924).

Nightlife
Granada’s 60,000 students ensure that the university town has a thriving nightlife. The bars to be found along Calle Elvira are a popular place to start the evening.
The Afrodisia club is popular for its typically Granadan choice of hip hop, ska and reggae sounds.
Don’t leave Granada without seeing some flamenco. On Saturday nights during the summer, visiting flamenco greats play at La Chumbera.
Afrodisia, Calle Almona del Boquerón (no phone).
La Chumbera, Camino del Monte (00 34 958 224 597).

Where to stay
The Albaicín, Granada’s UNESCO-protected old Moorish quarter, sits directly beneath the Alhambra, and is the most atmospheric place to stay.
The well-established Casa de Los Migueletes is housed in a seventeenth-century mansion built around an open-air courtyard, with a fountain and a lemon tree. The recently opened El Ladrón de Agua is a more low-key affair, though no less appealing, especially to fans of ‘Grand Designs’.
For those on a tighter budget, the Rambutan Guesthouse has great views across the surrounding Albaicín and Sacromonte districts.
Casa de Migueletes, Calle Benalúa 11, Plaza Nueva (00 34 958 210 700/ www.casamigueletes.com). Doubles from €129.
El Ladrón de Agua, Carrera del Darro 13 (00 34 958 22 43 45/ www.ladrondeagua.com). Doubles from €76.
Rambutan Guesthouse, Vereda de Enmedio Baja 8 (00 34 958 220 766/ www.rambutangranada.com). Dorm beds from about €14.

Getting there
Ryanair recently introduced direct flights to Granada from London Stansted from £37.98, including taxes.
Ryanair (0871 246 000/ www.ryanair.co.uk).

Also see our online guide www.timeout.com/travel/granada/

Jessica Eveleigh
Time Out Issue 1818: June 22-29 2005

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