The pick of Gdansk’s hotels is Podewils (ulica Szafarnia 2, 300 95 60, www.podewils.pl, €182-€219), with quayside views and antiques. The nearby Hanza (ulica Tokarska 6, 305 34 27, www.hotelhanza.pl, 465zl-695zl) is another riverside affair, with accommodation befitting the hotel’s four stars. Gdansk Apartments (0503 05 71 42, apartments from €50), run by an English-Polish couple, is the best self-catering accommodation in the old town. Further afield, Dwor Oliwski (ulica Bytowska 4, 554 70 00, www.dwor-oliwski.com.pl, 455zl-510zl) offers a set of purpose-built thatched buildings set amid landscaped gardens. Those on a budget should make a beeline for ulica Beethovena, which features half a dozen or so high-quality pensions such as Angela (ulica Beethovena 12, 302 23 15, 160zl). Note that guests are expected to pay for their stay in zloty, but due to the fluctuating nature of the zloty some hotels price themselves in dollars or euro. The bill is then worked out using the exchange rate of the day.

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