Swiss and French restaurants are the rule, with Genevan specialities including freshwater fish, longeole (an unsmoked sausage flavoured with cumin and fennel) and fondue. Gamay (red) and Chasselas (white) are local wines.

La Perle du Lac (rue de Lausanne 126, 909 10 20), overlooking the lake, is a classic option. Another lovely spot is Port de Gitana (route de Lausanne 314, 774 31 48), at Bellevue harbour. Try 400-year-old Café du Soleil for fondue (place du Petit-Saconnex 6, 733 34 17). Café du Centre (place du Molard 5, 311 85 86) has outdoor tables, while the baroque-style Café Universal (boulevard du Pont-d’Arve 26, 781 18 81) serves decent food and wine.

The stylish Café des Bains is a slice of Notting Hill in Plainpalais; it has a sister shop selling designer bits and bobs a few doors down (26 rue des bains, 320 34 60, shop at No.22, www.cafedesbains.com). Staying in the same trendy area, visit lively La Mamounia (boulevard Georges-Favon 10, 329 55 61) for quality Moroccan cuisine.

Dix Vins (rue Jacques-Dalphin 29, 342 40 10), in the leafy suburb of Carouge, offers traditional cuisine and a constantly changing wine list – ten wines to sample are wheeled out on a cart. ‘Chez Ma Cousine On y Mange du Poulet’ (At My Cousin’s House We Eat Chicken) is a local favourite for tasty affordable fare. It has three locations, including 6 place du Bourg-de-Four (310 96 96).

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